15 Creative Containers to Put Your Plants In

Use creative containers for potting any plant in (some restrictions will apply for very large plants). Use some of these ideas to get started. 

1. A coffee cup/saucer (for single plants only). Find plants small enough to fit the plant pot into a coffee cup you are willing to give up. (Ex. St. Paulia miniatures, cacti, succulents, parlor palm, etc.) Remember to always drain the excess water!

2. A window flower box (line the inside with a plastic tray to catch water before you add soil. Some have built in trays, older ones don’t always, though. If you already have an insert, drill holes in this. Keep box outdoors to avoid messes);

3. A painted pot or bucket to add visual interest (Drill holes for watering, or purchase a pot with a hole. The painted container doesn’t have to be the same as the one the plant is in. For more on double potting, see my other posts);

4. A basket;

5. A wicker box or bowl;

6. An old watering can (drill holes in the bottom);
7. A hat box. Use a plant pot large enough to fit inside and not look disproportionate;
8. A teacup (same as coffee cup);
9. An old milk carton;
10. A recycled plastic, wood, or metal container you might normally throw out;

11. A crate;

12. A chest;

13. A jewelry box;

14. A cigar box;
15. A vase or other glass container;

**Great for children who are learning about how plants grow… They will surely be amazed by the plant’s root development! Plus, parents can teach responsibility early by letting kids take care of a houseplant! Be sure to choose easy to grow plants that need minimal care and maintenance as kids first begin. They may need your help!**

The options are one-million-fold when it comes to planting in cool containers. This fact holds true for many, many plants. Your imagination is the only limit, so start thinking!

Very Important Note: Using antique furniture or other antique objects made of wood is not recommended unless you are VERY cautious with watering. Getting water on aged wood will damage it forever! Take steps to protect your prized pieces (or simply do not risk it)! You have been warned...

If you have any cool container ideas and would like to see them here, comment on this post, or email me and I will add your idea to this list! Please give a name you would like to appear next to your container!!!

GOOD LUCK, and I wish you all an excellent day!

The Weed of Death

Currently, I live in Westland, Michigan with my boyfriend of 4 years, Kenny. We are both renting a place right now, and let me tell you – the property has some of its own ‘planty’ surprises! During the growing season, we are faced with the horror that is…unspeakable! I’m so distraught by its fury I can’t even talk about it!

Ok, there. I took a deep breath. It’s a truly nasty surprise noticeable in the late spring and all summer long: False Bindweed, also known as the Morning Glory Vine or Hedge Bindweed. Its scientific name is Calystegia spp.

This demon is an invasive weed that winds around other plant stems clockwise …and kills them. Anything you have growing nearby that it decides to attack will die, if the weed is given free reign and enough time to perform its hideous murder!

…Bushes are fair game. Small tress and mature and trees alike are fair game. Watch out! If you notice Bindweed near any plants you want to keep—take action now—before it’s too late!!

About Morning Glory Vine

This weedy perennial vine will twine all over the garden, covering your ornamental plants to the point of smothering them. It is usually introduced by seed or invasive roots from under the neighbor's fence. Its success as a weed lies in its thick fleshy roots which travel long distances just under the soil surface. Since morning glory is a perennial weed, control lies in removing the root system. Hand weeding can remove large quantities of roots, but any broken pieces are capable of sprouting new growth. Repeated, persistent digging as the new growth sprouts can deplete the food reserves. If chemical control is required, cut back the growth and apply the material to leaves or stems in as localized a fashion as possible.

The Weed From Hell

One man’s fight with The Weed of Death is revealed below. Eventually he was able to win the battle, even when it seemed the odds were most certainly against him! But it didn’t come without a cost…Time, lots and lots of time!

Gardening is close to impossible when it gets this well established, as the massive root system of the plant goes about 15 foot deep and can throw out endless meters of plant growth all summer. I've seen it scale to the top of a 5 foot fence in just three days. Of all the weeds I've had in my garden, this one is the weed from Hell.

The main problem with bindweed is the massive deep root network, so if you kill that the result should be good. Glyphosate weed killers (like roundup) are taken in to the roots of weeds and kill them, so I tried them first and discovered that they didn't have lasting effects on such a large plant. The quantity absorbed by the foliage isn't enough to kill the main root system, it's just too big, and increasing the concentration of glyphosate would cause the foliage to die faster and quickly cut off the absorption. What you need is slow poisoning, that way the plant and it's vast roots will absorb as much glyphosate as possible before it becomes terminal.

I collected the long strands of bindweed and wrapped them up in balls that I placed inside old jars and tin cans. These I filled with a glyphosate based weed killer, but I mixed it with about 1/3 more water than the instructions suggested, then I covered them over with plastic which I taped down firmly to keep animals and rain out. Do be aware that if these are knocked over and spilt on to plants you want they will die, so it's advisable to keep them at a distance and partly bury them in the ground for stability.

It takes time, but I could clearly see the level in the containers reducing as the plant absorbed it. This seemed to work faster in the hot weather as the plant would be drawing more water, and also not removing the new bindweed shoots as they emerge since their growing is causing the plant to soak up more weed killer, and also these shoots will be your next place to attach another can of solution when the old ones die off. For the first couple of months I saw no effect, although the bindweed had sucked in several pints of weed killer, but then it started to slow down, and after a while I noticed the new growth was an unhealthy yellow color with holes in the misshapen leaves. About four months after starting this the main root system must have collapsed as the plant just withered away, even the bindweed across the road died (must have been one huge plant under the garden/road). It did continue to sprout the very occasional sickly yellow shoot, but a quick spray of weed killer dealt with them nicely.

In the end, it took roughly 2-3 years to kill the entire root system! Calystegia has a huge root system; the real trick is to get to it early or it can be very hard to control. Digging up the weed, the masses of root were as big around as my thigh and traveling the entire length of the home’s cement foundation!

Methods of Control
1. Dig what you can, treat any new growth sprouting immediately with Roundup. Be consistent, complete removal may take a year or two.

2. Fill a small container with roundup. Cut a small hole or slit in the top and stick one of the vines in the container (through the hole in the top). Place the container in an area where it won't get knocked over or disturbed. Watch and wait for the plant to die. You may need to do this several times to kill it all. The idea is to let the plant soak up lots and lots of roundup (far more than what it would soak up from the leaves.) It is VERY important that the container of RU be in a safe spot where kids and animals won't get into it or knock it over.

3. Also another method is to hand pull all old growth you can find, then apply roundup to any new growth. (Just by spraying or painting this time) Newer growth is far more susceptible to herbicides.

Chocolate Eggnog Martini

Here is a perfect martini recipe to share with friends or family around this time of year! If you love eggnog, this one's for you! Forget the brandy! Try this:

Note: adjust the amount of eggnog to suit your personal taste

3 shots eggnog (homemade or store bought - either is fine)
4 shots Creme de Cacao (chocolate liqueur)
4 shots vanilla vodka (Smirnoff or any vodka of your choice)

For a larger glass, double the above recipe. Add all ingredients to a shaker with lots of ice. Cap. Shake vigorously until ice cold. Pour into a frosted martini glass. Garnish with nutmeg and cinnamon. Sip. Enjoy!

Variations:

Chocolate Espresso Eggnog Martini
For a coffee twist, use Three Olives (Triple Distilled) Espresso Vodka instead of the vanilla vodka. Contains caffeine!

Chocolate Mint Eggnog Martini
For a Christmas delight, use creme de menthe and creme de cacao together (with vanilla vodka) for a surprising combination. The trick is to use much less mint liqueur than the other ingredients so it doesn't overpower the others:

4 shots creme de cacao
4 shots vanilla vodka
3-4 shots eggnog
1 shot creme de menthe

Happy Yule, Christmas, Hanukkah, Noël, Sinterklaas, etc!

Caring For Houseplants While On Vacation

When You’re Away, Houseplants Will Play!
Keep your plants healthy and happy while you are away using these helpful tips:

Outdoors
If you often vacation in the summertime (when temperatures are warm), put temporarily orphaned plants outside. They appreciate the warm temperature and fresh air just like we do!

Water all your plants (both indoors and out) thoroughly before you leave the house. Some plants will be fine with just the one watering. Others will need constant moisture to some degree (to provide this, use the tub method, below; or try the wicking system, also described below).

If you have potted plants outside that concern you because you aren’t able to bring them in, sink the pot and all directly into the ground (especially if the pot is clay or terracotta) – The pot will soak up the surrounding moisture in the soil and utilize it for your plants.

To do this, simply dig a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the pot, and the same depth. Sink the pot into the hole; firm soil around it. If it rains, your plant will love the drink! When you return, dig up the pot and rinse it clean.

**Warning**  Just in case you are in a wet climate or swampy type area, I recommend you do not leave cacti or succulents outdoors while away – even if they are potted. Do not use the sinking pot technique with cacti! The wet area will prove too moist for a succulent (such as Aloe Vera or Jade Plant). If you insist on putting these plant types outside, place them in a shaded area on a table or surface away from the ground; you wouldn’t want them going mushy!

Outdoor plants don’t do well in direct sun. Choose good places such as under a tree, or at the side of the house in the shade. They will use much less water than normal when shaded.

Your outdoor plants will also be watered by the sprinkler (assuming you have one!)

Also, it's a good idea to place those moisture loving plants in a kiddy pool filled with a bit of water to give them plenty to drink!

Try to be gone no longer than 2 weeks. If your trip lasts longer, have someone come to house sit.

Indoors
You can place plants (that are in clay pots) in the tub to water them while absent. Use unglazed bricks to set them on in the tub with just a few inches of water. Make sure water is touching the bricks. Your plants will absorb the water through the bricks (they are porous, just like terracotta) and then on up through the pots to your plant.

If your plants are in the bathroom for the duration of your trip, be sure to leave the lights on in the room. They will benefit from the fluorescent lights (even if the bulbs are standard types, the plants will still appreciate the light) which will effectively replace natural sunlight.

Setting Up a Simple Wicking System

A. Place plants in a circle around a large container of water

B. Use cotton twine and place one end deep into the water, with the opposite end set into each pot; bury this end a little bit in the soil

C. Make sure the water container itself is higher up than the actual pot. Gravity will drag the water down to your plants via the string

D. Be sure the leaves do not touch the string! Otherwise, they will get too wet and rot! Your plants should stay nice and evenly moist for those shorter trips! Tip: For water loving plants like a Peace Lily, set 2 water containers nearby, and wick 2 strings into the pot instead of one. That should easily satisfy Peace Lily's never ending greed for more ((and still more)) water!

With these easy tips for plant vacation care, you'll never have to worry about coming home to a bunch of dead houseplants ever again! Vacation with confidence!

Orchid Care 101

Orchids (Orchidaceae spp.) grow naturally in tropical environments like a rain forest. They are a  large group of flowering plants with over 22,000 known species, and are perhaps the second largest group of flowering plants in the world. Some orchids even grow on rocks near rivers or streams where they receive constant moisture. Orchids also grow dangling from the branches of trees. Over time, these beautiful plants have adapted to warm, humid places. The easiest way to care for orchids is to try mimicking these conditions as closely as possible in your home. 

They have a reputation for being difficult to care for, but given the  right conditions, and assuming their needs are well met, they can live for years just like any other exotic houseplant. What most people don’t realize is that orchids love water and humidity. Because of this, orchids need a good draining mix and lots of air circulation – both down in the roots and around the entire plant. Orchids DO NOT grow in potting soil – this would most assuredly kill them! Instead, they are grown in a light, airy bark mix and clay, terracotta or glazed pots. Orchid pots have holes throughout the pot, in order to let the plant's roots breathe.

Light
Most orchids love bright, indirect light (but not full sun). A southern window is the ideal location for most orchids, except Lady’s slipper and Moth orchids, which prefer less light (East or West facing windows are best). Place your orchids back a bit from the window to avoid direct sun.

Northern light would not be good for any type of orchid – In order to grow well they must have lots of bright light. Consequently, a northern exposure does not offer this important requirement. In case northern light is all you have, you can successfully grow orchids using only fluorescent lighting.

Watering
Although many orchid tags state “just three ice cubes every week” is enough water for your orchid, this is not true! Don’t believe it! The fact is, orchids need more water than just three measly ice cubes can provide.

That said, overwatering is probably the number one reason orchids (and in fact all houseplants) die. The second reason (magnified if the plant is already being overwatered) is lack of proper light. While watering your orchid isn’t an exact science, learning the needs of you particular plant will help you to better meet its watering needs. All orchids have slightly different needs. Even so, your best bet is to drench the plant and let it dry out slightly before the next watering. In general, it’s good to water your orchid every 7 - 10 days.

There are two good ways to water your orchid. The first is to bring it to the kitchen sink. Run it under water until the bark (or whichever growing media you have for your orchid) is thoroughly saturated. Drench well. It should drain freely – the last thing anybody wants is a soggy, wet orchid mix! These beauties need a steady supply of moisture. However, be careful not to overwater. It’s better to forget a watering than it is to water too much.

The second way you can water your orchid is: submerge the plant pot into a stock pot or bucket of room temperature water. The water level should come up to just above the lip of the pot. Leave the plant there for about 10 minutes. Take the orchid out of the bucket and allow it to drain thoroughly.

One symptom of underwatering is wrinkled leaves. If you notice the foliage wrinkling, try watering your orchid a bit more next time.

Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing foliage. If you notice this symptom, it means the roots are slowly rotting; the plant can’t handle too much water! Let it dry out thoroughly before you water again. However, yellowing leaves can also indicate underwatering, so try and keep track of how often (and how much) you water. I’m not asking you to measure the water out, just keep it in mind!

Checking the Moisture Level
Use a pencil (point side down) in the media to check the moisture level of the orchid. Leave it buried for about 10 minutes. If the pencil is dry on the end when you check it, you need to water the plant. If the pencil is moist, wait before you water again.

Humidity
Orchids love humidity since it reminds them of their natural growing conditions. There are several ways you can boost humidity around your orchid:

1. Use a humidity tray. These can be purchased specifically for orchids, African Violets, and other humidity-loving plants. Or, to save a trip to the plant shop – create your own humidity trays using a plastic drip tray filled with glass gems, stones, bark, or even sea shells. Set the orchid onto the stones, and then fill the tray to just beneath the bottom of the plant pot. Change out the water every two weeks and keep an eye out for empty trays… The more often you fill the tray, the better your orchid will do!

2. Mist your orchid whenever you water, or more even frequently if you live in a hot, dry place. If your home has very dry air, try misting daily

3. Use a humidifier in the same room as your plant. This will boost the ambient humidity around your plants, and they will reap the rewards! Leave it running whenever you feel your plants need a humidity boost

Use something like this tray filled with gems and shells (above), which also works well for African Violets. Of course, for your orchid you will surely need something a lot larger than what's above!

4. Group your orchids close together, even on the same humidity tray. The plants will benefit from the moisture expelled and take it in through their leaves

A Specialized Plant Part
Some orchids have a feature on the base of the plant called a psuedobulb, which stores water (exactly like cacti and succulents store water in their leaves). These orchid types love water. When you water, just drench the plant. Before you water again, allow the orchid to approach some level of dryness. This is very important, since psudobulb orchids will utilize the water they already have stored. A psudobulb is exactly like the hump on a camel’s back. Remember this fact the next time you water! (Keep in mind: some orchids don’t have a psudobulb, so it’s a good idea to look at the base of your orchid to see which type you have)

Media and Fertilizer
Orchid growing media is usually composed of some combination of: Fir bark, perlite, and charcoal. Occasionally you’ll see coconut husk fibers included in the mixture. Orchid planting mix/media will drain very generously. Fir bark is very low in nutrients, so your orchid will need to be fertilized with a balanced fertilizer (such as 20-20-20 or 10-10-10) from time to time to maintain its beautiful blooms and foliage. When fertilizing an orchid, please remember: a little goes a long way! Use a water soluble fertilizer every other time you water – even in the winter! Shock! You won’t hear me say that very often! Be sure to fertilize monthly in the wintertime.

Types of Orchids
There are many kinds of orchids available for you to choose from. If you have eastern or western facing windows where you already keep plants, your best choices are the Moth or Slipper Orchid variety (since these prefer less light). If you have a southern or western window, look for any of the other plants listed below. Florescent lights are also available if you don’t have a South, East or western exposure to take advantage of.

Buttonhole Orchid
(Epidendrum spp.)
Blooms: Clusters of small flowers
Light: Bright light is best
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Cactus Orchid
(Epiphyllum spp.)
Blooms: Large, bright flowers
Light: Medium to bright light is best
Water: Keep this plant barely moist at all times (slightly wet); water less than other orchids

Corsage Orchid
(Cattleya spp.)
Blooms: Big, frilled blooms used to make corsages, hence the name.
Light: Bright light is best. Direct sun in the morning is okay, with just a bit in the afternoon
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Clamshell Orchid
(Encyclia spp.)

Blooms: Clusters of numerous small flowers

Light: Bright light is best

Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Cymbidium Orchid
(Cymbidium spp.)

Blooms: Long lasting flowers, grass-like foliage

Light: Bright light is best

Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings



Dancing Lady Orchid
(Oncidium spp.)

Blooms: This orchid’s flower actually looks like a little dancing lady in a dress, hence its name. The plant can produce up to 100 small blooms at once! Colors include red, white and yellow. The flowers have the scent of chocolate!
Light: Bright to intense light is best. Protect from direct sun if placed outdoors in the summertime
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings. Can have pseudobulbs.

Dens, Spray Orchids
(Dendrobium hybrids)
Blooms: Attractive flowers last for weeks at a time. Yellow, red, pink, or violet colors.
Light: Bright to intense light is best.
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings. Keep in mind their cane-like stems store water! Some varieties also have pseudobulbs.

Jewel Orchid
(Ludisia discolor)
Blooms: Maroon colored leaves with silver veins
Light: Medium light is best
Water: Keep plant evenly moist (drench, then water again just before the media dries out on top)

Moth Orchid
(Phalaenopsis spp.)
Blooms: Flowers last 6 weeks or longer and come in colors of white, pink or yellow, with a network of colorful veins throughout the petals. The flowers are moth shaped, hence the name
Light: Medium to bright; less light than most other orchids. Place the plant in an eastern or western exposure
Water: Allow media to go dry (about 1 inch below the surface) between waterings

Odontoglossum Orchid
(Odontoglossum spp.)
Blooms: Dramatic arching flower spray
Light: Bright light is best
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Lady’s Slipper Orchid
(Paphiopedilun spp.)
Blooms: The blooms include a pouch which looks like a slipper, giving this orchid its name. Blooms can last for 8 weeks, sometimes more. Strap-like leaves with large, waxy flowers. Comes in pink, brown, or white colors.
Light: Needs less light than most other orchids, on the moderate side. An eastern or western exposure will do nicely. Protect from direct sun if placed outdoors in the summertime
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Spider Orchid
(Brassia spp.)
Blooms: Spider-like flowers with graceful stems
Light: Bright to intense light is best
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Tailed Orchid
(Masdevallia spp.)
Blooms: Showy tailed flowers
Light: Medium to bright light is best
Water: Keep plant barely moist at all times

Vanda Orchid
(Vanda hybrids)
Blooms: Large long lasting flowers
Light: Bright to intense light is best
Water: Allow media to go dry between waterings

This post was made especially for one of my readers, Joe's Blog, who asked me a question about her orchid. Thanks for reading! And to all of you, good luck caring for and selecting your orchids! Have an awesome day =)

Lucky Bamboo 101

Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) is actually a member of the Dracaena family, and is not really bamboo at all. The kind of bamboo people confuse it with is in fact a grass which is eaten by pandas in Asia. They do look very similar, though! This type of Dracaena is a popular houseplant. Legend has it this plant will bring good luck to your home and family.

Most Lucky Bamboo plants are sold potted in clear glass containers with decorative glass gems all around the roots. These are ideal since they are pretty to look at, and they help hold your plant up! If you see Lucky Bamboo sold another way (i.e. in soil, bare root) try to look for little glass gems at the dollar store or online to help hold up your plant. Stones or pebbles also work for this. Simply repot the plant into a glass container with water instead of soil. (Lucky Bamboo potted in water is easier to care for than one in soil -- due to the fact that soils carry bacteria and many fungal diseases).

If your Lucky Bamboo container or pot hasn’t been cleaned out in a while, it’s a good idea to do from time to time, both for cleanliness reasons and the health of your plant. As the plant gets larger, its roots will grow longer and begin to fill the pot. It’s a good idea to give these leggy roots a trim. Also, because this plant is (usually) potted in water alone, algae will build up over time on the inside of the container and must be cleaned properly.

Read on to find out how to change the water and clean out your bamboo pot!

You'll need:

Lucky Bamboo
A large bowl
A cup with high sides
Scissors
Your kitchen sink (or a place with running water)
Soap and water
Clean water for your plant

1. Lightly grasp your bamboo in one hand (see above).

2. Hold plant pot over the bowl.

3. Gently pull bamboo out of the container. Let all glass gems/stones fall into the bowl. Next, clear off all gems from plant roots.

4. Set bamboo into the cup (right); high sides prevent your plant from toppling over. Set aside.

5. Rinse out the container with soap and warm water. Next, rinse gems or stones free of any debris.

This step helps remove algae buildup and refreshes your gems (which surround the plant and are in direct contact with it); It is important the gems and container remain clean so bacteria doesn’t harm your plant! Changing the water periodically is also useful in preventing plant diseases.

6. If needed (using scissors) trim excessively long roots to a uniform length. You can remove up to (but no more than) 1/3 of the plants’ roots. Doing this keeps the plant from sucking down a whole ton of water, and also makes it aesthetically pleasing when displayed in glass containers.

7. Replace plant into the clean container. Hold the stalks straight and make sure they are centered.

8. Then, replace gems around the roots and stalks to stabilize the plant

9. Finally, water your bamboo with clean water (at room temp). Be sure to change the water every 3 weeks or so and always keep the roots covered in water!

General Care
Give Lucky Bamboo good light, but not direct sun; this will kill your plant! A western or eastern facing window works very well. Keep an eye out for any spotting or discoloration of the stalks. If you notice this, it means one of two things: either too much water, or the plant is getting too much sun. Fill the container with less water and move the plant to a less sunny location.

Watering and Your Container Size
Depending on the container size, the plant may need more or less water. Clear glass containers work well to help you keep track of the water level. For example, if your plant is small (less than 5” tall) the container won’t need to be filled to the top. If your plant is larger (7-10” tall or taller) you can safely fill the container to the top. (Be careful if the stalks are mostly inside the pot -- filling it with water all the way can cause rotting. If, on the other hand, the stalks are completely above the pot and not really inside [that is, underwater], your bamboo will be safe from rotting)

So generally speaking,
Shallow container – fill to top with water
Deep container – cover roots and fill about ¾ way up

Keep in mind, there are exceptions to this rule; I'm speaking generally here! Be careful when watering, but always keep roots covered. The leaves tend to get a bit dusty, so rinse them off occasionally. Yellowing of leaves does happen sometimes. I find this to be a normal occurrence with Lucky Bamboo. Simply trim them off with scissors to keep it looking nice!


Problems
One of the major mistakes people make with Lucky Bamboo is letting the roots dry out. Although the plant can stay alive for weeks (sometimes months) in a dry state, the plant needs regular watering to thrive. On the other hand, I have seen bamboo get too much water – this causes the stalks to turn yellow and rot. Once this happens, the only option is to buy another plant!

I hope this little guide will provide you with some tips on care and maintenance for your plant. If anyone has questions or comments, please let me know!

You Should Repot Your Plant If...

Here are some signs you will want to see before deciding whether or not it's a good time to repot. If you see only one of these signs, you may not need to repot just yet; however, if your plant exhibits MANY of these signs, repotting is a wise move! This list is intended as a general guideline for repotting, and does not include all signs a plant may exhibit when in need.

If you find I have left out an important sign, please let me know and I will add it to the list (please leave a name so I can credit your contribution!). Leave a comment or drop me a line: My email

You should repot a plant if...
1) Roots are coming up above the soil surface

2) Roots emerge from the drainage holes

3) The plant is heavy but has not been recently watered

4) Your plant's growth isn't as vigorous as usual (lack of flowering, less leaf development)

5) Leaves appear bleached of color (also this can indicate a need for water), are brown or yellowing

6) The plant is pot bound, meaning the small size of a plant's container has sufficiently inhibited or stunted the growth of the plant. Usually if this is the case, a great part of the plant beneath the soil will be solely roots, with very little soil evident.

7) The plant droops but is sufficiently watered (NOT overwatered! Be careful: a plant can also droop if watered too much!)

8) The pot has little to no drainage, or otherwise drains poorly after watering

9) You dislike the pot in general, or the plant needs a style update

How to Repot A Houseplant

Repotting a root bound plant can be very helpful to a new plant that’s outgrown its living quarters. Every two years or so, you will need to repot smaller plants (12-24 inches tall); repot larger plants less often. Plants such as African Violet or Peace Lily often need to be root bound to bloom, so repot these carefully and with caution! Spread out some papers or other type of protection for your table surface – repotting a plant can sometimes be a little messy!

1) Choose a pot for your plant. You can buy a porous clay pot like terracotta, or a glazed pot if preferred. Clay pots are susceptible to breakage if dropped, and also very heavy. Another consideration is that clay dries out very quickly, so you’ll need to water the plant more frequently. Glazed pots will dry out slowly and are nice to look at. Plastic pots are easy to clean, light in weight, and extremely durable.

2) Make sure your pot has sufficient drainage! Drainage holes allow a plant to drain excess water once it has been watered. Be sure to have a saucer or something to catch the water. If you like a special plastic pot, you can easily create your own holes using a drill or nail. This is very important: too much water will cause problems for your plant.

3)  Use good potting soil that is plant specific (i.e. cactus mix for most cacti and succulents, African Violet mix for African violets, etc). MiracleGro potting mixes are very good – I’ve had excellent results with this brand myself, so I highly recommend it!

4) To increase drainage, you might want to put some broken pottery (a coffee mug you don't use anymore, or the shards from a broken plant pot) or large stones into the bottom of the pot -- make sure they're large enough so as not to fall out the holes. Shards/stones etc. in the pot allow water to drain more freely. Put about 1" of soil into the bottom of your pot. Wet the soil slightly so it doesn’t fall out the drainage hole(s). Note: Repot the plant into its new container at the same level it was when in the original container. You may need to add more or less soil on the bottom of the pot to accomplish this.

This Dieffenbachia plant badly needs repotting, since the roots have almost completely filled the pot. Some fresh soil will be a great help to our green friend! If necessary, you can remove up to 1/3 of a plant's roots. Cutting away the bottom third of this root ball off would encourage the plant to create newer roots and promote healthy growth. Use a sharp serrated knife to do this.

5) Place the root ball of your plant into the new pot and surround it with more fresh soil. Make sure the plant is straight and well situated in the pot. Place a bit more soil on top of the root ball and press down LIGHTLY. Compressing too much soil around the roots doesn't allow them ample breathing room! Be sure to cover the roots COMPLETELY with soil (1-2 inches should be enough on top).

6) Leave about 1-inch of space at the top to accommodate for watering. You have repotted your plant!

7) Be sure to give the plant some water, so it can get used to its new home. A dry plant is a sad plant!

8) Choose a good location for your plant. Most plants thrive in a window that gets good morning or afternoon sun, but not full sun. Too much sun can sunburn leaves, so be careful!

9) To repot a plant you already have well established, you will need to knock out the rootball from the pot. This may require some muscle, so go do some weightlifting first! Just kidding...

To remove an established rootball (these tend to be a bit stubborn), place your fingers over the top of the soil with the plant leaves in between your fingers (see diagram).  Be careful not to bend or break any leaves! Next, find a table edge or corner to rap the pot against. This loosens the roots from the sides of the pot. If necessary, use a hand to further encourage the rootball to vacate -- just tap the bottom of the pot. Finally, the root ball should slide out into your hand. Then, simply follow steps 5 - 8 to repot the plant!  =)

Raising Plant Humidity

"How do I love thee, let me count the ways!"
Elizabeth Barrett Browning

There are many ways to 'lovingly' and effectively raise plant humidity. Some plants thrive in a humid environment more suited to a greenhouse or jungle than your home. But don’t worry, here are some simple steps you can take to ensure your plants have a higher humidity level !

1 – Place your plant on a humidity tray with rocks or pebbles, and fill the tray with slightly warm water, or room temp – but NEVER hot! Make sure the plant sits on top of the pebbles in the tray, but not submerged in water. This can cause the roots to become too wet, and will lead to root rot. Change the water every few days.

2 – Use a humidifier in the room(s) where you keep plants. You can raise humidity this way by leaving the humidifier going while you’re at work, or whenever. Your plants will surely love the benefits.

3 – Mist your plants daily, sometimes even twice a day (depending on the plant), especially in winter when conditions are naturally drier. The misting helps plants to absorb moisture through their leaves, and also serves another purpose: the leaves of some plants get a bit dusty, and misting them will help keep them looking good. Remember: A lot of house pants are tropical in origin, and will benefit from a moist, rain forest type atmosphere! Try to duplicate a plant’s original environment the best you can using humidity.

4 – Misting also helps prevent spider mites from attacking your houseplants. Specific plants, such as English Ivy or Majesty Palm, are particularly susceptible to spider mite attack. Spider mites are tiny, red insects that spin webs on your plants and damage them by discoloring the leaves, scorching them, or causing individual leaves to die. An infestation of spider mites can even lead to plant death! They only attack in very dry environments, so if you mist regularly and raise humidity, they will most likely not bother your plants.

5 – Group several plants together on a table or other surface. I can best explain this by relating a true-to-life situation: Think about what happens when you walk into a room filled with several people – say, like six or more. You spend some time in the room, realizing there’s no fresh air filtering in, there’s no breeze, and you start getting a bit hot. You realize that body heat is to blame! The ambient temperature has definitely gone up, due to humans giving off heat.

Okay, so a lot of people = a rise in room temperature. Similarly, a lot of plants = a rise in humidity

Plants don’t really have a temperature, but they do absorb moisture and carbon dioxide from the air. They also give off oxygen (good for us!) and lose water through their leaves, so other plants nearby can benefit from this natural evaporation coming from another plant. So, if you group them close together (within a foot of each other) you automatically raise the ambient humidity around your plants.

6 – Grow your plants in a terrarium or other enclosure, such as a fish tank. Each of these items function much in the same manner: They trap moisture around your plants, raising their humidity level. This also means you won’t have to water the plants as much. And also, terrariums make a great way to display your plants!

7 – Place your plants outside during rainstorms. Plants that benefit from the occasional shower will love a bit of rain! Plants that love humidity include: ivy, palms, ferns, and many others.

8 – Place plants in rooms such as the bathroom or your kitchen: these rooms are naturally moist, since features include sinks, toilets, baths and showers – all of these in close proximity to plants help increase humidity! A hot shower can be excellent for plants in the room, so be sure to keep the door closed and build up the steam!

Just be sure to never put your plants INTO a scalding hot shower. When rinsing plants, stick with slightly warm water, so as not to damage tender roots.

Snake Plant 101 - Taking 'Easy' to a New Level

Snake plant (Sansevieria), A.K.A Mother-In-Law’s Tongue, is a succulent plant, which means the leaves retain lots of water, similar to a cactus. You can recognize snake plants by their long, pointed, upright leaves which look very much like snakes, giving the plant its name. It is green in color, but sometimes has yellow edges.

1) When it’s time to buy a new plant, be sure to select a healthy looking plant that is a deep green. Pale leaves mean the plant may already be suffering at the store, and there’s no reason to waste your money on snake plant that’s growing poorly before you even get it home!

2) Often times when you buy a new houseplant, you should repot it into a new pot with fresh soil ASAP. If the roots appear above the soil, the plant definitely needs to be repotted. Also, if the pot from the store is simply a cheap plastic pot, I recommend you repot your new plant. It will be much happier that way!

3) Give snake plant sufficient light. The plant will thrive in a sunny window facing east, west or south. If you have only a north facing window, don’t despair! Snake plant handles a variety of light situations very well. If you can only provide minimal light, the plant will be fine. Later, when the opportunity presents itself, move snake plant to a sunnier window. The more sun it gets, the faster it will grow!

4) Water sparingly. A succulent holds lots of water inside its leaves, and if you give it too much water, the plant will rot. By sparingly, I mean water every two to three weeks (In the summer time, the plant will use more water, especially if it's in a very sunny location. In winter, the plant uses less water, so be sure to adjust accordingly). Use room temperature water so the roots don’t get shocked. Wet the top of the soil thoroughly, but be sure not to drown the plant! You are better off watering the plant too little than too much!

5) Feed the plant with a tiny amount of general all purpose plant food (the kind you dissolve in water) in the spring and summer. Because this is the primary growing time for snake plant, it will thank you for the extra growth boost the fertilizer provides. Put the fertilizer in your favorite watering jug, and just fertilize every time you water. In fall and winter, stop fertilizing – snake plant doesn’t need to be fed at this time of year.

6) Snake plant is extremely forgiving, and in fact will thrive more on neglect rather than too much attention. If you miss a watering, don’t worry! Water the next time you remember. Snake plant will survive in low light conditions, or even full sun! Therefore, snake plant is one of the most common and easy-to-care-for plants you can buy.

Important tip: As I already mentioned, do not overwater! The plant will die if it can’t absorb excess water in the pot. Overwatering is the number one cause of plant death!

If you be sure to give good light and small amounts of water to snake plant about every two to three weeks, it will prosper and bring you joy for many years!

Plant Pest Series: Part I

7 Steps For Stopping Fungus Gnats in Their Tracks

What Are They? Fungus Gants are tiny flying insects that swarm around affected plants. You may see them on nearby windows, flying above your plants, on the leaves, or even on the table top. Even if you don’t see them there, check the surface of your soil: you will notice little mini insects walking over your soil. They may seem harmless, but think again! Adults can lay 300 eggs at one time, that hatch a week later. They can damage seedlings, stems and plant roots by feeding on them… Gnats are bad news! Read on to learn how to stop them in their tracks!

Preventative Measures
Step 1: Check new houseplants before you buy them! Inspect leaves [particularly the undersides], stems and especially the roots thoroughly for problems. Removing the root ball from the container is okay to do, and is certainly a good idea! Using a finger, disturb the soil a little to see if any gnats fly out. If so, this particular plant is already affected.

If you notice any yellowed leaves, black spots, sunburned leaves, curling, mushy roots (usually dark brown or even blackened in color) or weak stems that easily flop from side to side when shaken, the plant is definitely not for you! It clearly shows signs of neglect, and most likely disease. Be sure and choose a healthier looking plant!

Step 2: Just in case, isolate newly purchased plants for a couple days to see if any problems manifest. Keep them away from all your other plants, so as not to spread any pests to other plants. After a trail period, if no pests show up, put the plant with your others with confidence!

Plants thrive in conditions anywhere between 65 – 75 degrees. Cooler than 65 degrees can result in cold injury, whereas warmer than 75 degrees can parch your plants very quickly and slow their growth. In terms of temperature, the best conditions for plants is in a room kept somewhere between 65 – 75 degrees.

Dealing With Gnats
Step 1: In cases of fungus gnat infestation, soil will be very moist and generally in a warm environment (70 degrees or more). Try lowering room temperature if possible. Or, try move the plant next to a window in the fall and wintertime, where the temperature will be slightly lower.

Step 2: Make sure your plant has good drainage. If not, you may need to repot it (see Step 8)

Step 3: Water a bit less frequently, giving the plant time to dry out just a bit between watering. It should be slightly moist to the touch, but not sopping wet. Let the plants’ soil dry slightly (but not entirely). Drier soul will help kill the larvae (baby fungus gnats) that hatch from microscopic eggs laid by adult gnats within your plant pot. In a moist environment the eggs will hatch, but if the soil is on the dry side, the eggs simply dissolve before they hatch.

Step 4: Wine or apple cider vinegar attracts fungus gnats because of its pungent smell. Place a small bowl of either wine or vinegar near the affected plant(s). This will draw out the adult gnats, which will come to investigate. Upon landing in the bowl, they will quickly drown.

Step 5: Top your plant soil with sand. This makes the soil much less attractive to the fungus gnats, since they prefer moist soil. If they fly to your plant and feel the soil is dry, they won’t bother it. Keep in mind that moist soil underneath the sand will still harbor gnats, so be sure to let the plant dry a little bit.

Step 6: Place homemade gnat traps in your affected plants. They are very easy to make.

You will need:
Popsicle sticks OR a dowel rod OR a chopstick (your choice);
3x5 cards OR heavy-duty paper OR thin cardboard;
Elmer’s glue;
Scotch tape OR masking tape OR double-sided tape (any kind of tape will work, but double-sided tape is especially good for these)
If you'd rather use fly paper traps, you can secure them to the stick the same way as the guy in the photo, below:

1. If using a 3x5 card, leave the size as is. Otherwise, cut the cardboard into 2” by 2” squares for much smaller plants or 4” by 4” for larger plants, etc. (The idea is to make the trap the right size for your plant so it’s not bumping into leaves or stems.)

2. Using the popsicle stick as a base for the trap, glue the 3x5 card to the popsicle stick – you can use two pieces to make the trap double-sided if you wish.

3. Then, using double-sided tape, cover each side of the card completely. Make sure the sticky side faces out [in case you didn’t have any double-sided tape]. Or, use fly paper and secure it to the popsicle stick.

4. Place the traps in your affected soil, sticking them deep enough so they don’t topple over. As the gnats fly about, they will get stuck to the tape and die. Discard traps later. If your infestation is severe, use several traps coupled with any of the other methods described above!

**Making your own traps from scratch will be much cheaper than buying either fly paper or whitefly traps. Whiteflys are another type of houseplant pest -- I will post on them soon! ** If NONE of the above ideas are working, read on:

Step 7: Repot your plant completely in fresh potting soil. To increase drainage, place potsherds or stones in the bottom of the pot before you place in the plant. For additional drainage, mix your standard potting soil with sand [sharp sand is best, or you can use sandbox sand]. Water your plant, and then top the soil with a layer of sand to further deter the gnats from ever coming back again! Good luck!

Keep an eye out for the next part in my Plant Pest Series, Part II: Spider Mites!

How to Make a Smudge Stick and What to Do With It

I just got a bunch of fresh sage from my Mom's garden today -- I mean there's a ton! My plan is to make a smudge stick -- or several! A few weeks ago I got two fairly big stems of sage (also from my Mom's garden) and dried them in the 'traditional manner' by hanging them upside down for several days in a well ventilated place. To do this, get some thread or string that's thick enough to work with easily; yarn is what I used to hang mine. Wrap the stems of the sage with the yarn several times and tie together tightly. Flip the bundle upside down, and string it up someplace out of the way so you aren't running into it all the time! Hooks or rods, such as for many curtains, are good places for this. In several days, your sage will be dried and ready to use. The first time I dried sage, I just chopped it up, and placed it in a mason jar to either burn on charcoal (for incense) or use in a smudging bowl with other herbs. Either way, sage is excellent for protection and clearing away negativity. Make sure you label your jars or bottles clearly so you don't accidentally forget what's inside!

A Bit of Folklore
Traditionally in the old days, people would use the kitchen area for drying herbs and the like. The hanging of garlic was customary to ward off evil spirits -- hung above or near a doorway, it was thought to form a protective barrier between you and anything trying to gain entry that you desired to keep OUT. Smudging with sage, cedar, or sweetgrass can accomplish this, also. The smoke produced is very cleansing and liberating for mind, body and soul. It can be used to mark a barrier (like your property line) if burned as you walk the perimeter of your home. Sage is also excellent in meditation, holiday celebrations, house blessings/cleanings (or, just because you feel like it!). Sage has long been used in Western magical traditions to aid in both ritual and worship. Of course, sage always makes me think of Native American Indians, whose great Earth wisdom originally taught us the secrets of sage. Tobacco is also considered a sacred plant, and was used for smoking and ritual in much the same manner.

How to Make a Smudge Stick
You will need:
Twine or string, color of your choice
Scissors
Sage, cedar, or other herbs of your choosing
Newspaper (if using for drying)

1. Decide how long you want your smudge stick to be. For a 5" smudge stick, you will need to cut about 10 1/2" of string for wrapping. Having a little extra means you can always trim away the excess string at the end!

 2. Select two, three or four fairly long branches to use for your stick (about 4 - 5"  for a large one or 2 -3" for a smaller one).  If your sage is longer than that, you can cut it to the length you want. The number of branches used is entirely up to you -- it's really about significance or just personal preference. If you want a very thick smudge stick, you may need even more branches!

3. Leaving the leaves attached, place the thickest branches together in the middle, with most of the leaves facing outward. Putting the branches together in the center will allow the smudge stick to have more stability once it dries.

4. Wind the string tightly around the bundle, starting at the bottom and working up to the top. As you do this, use the hand not holding the string to lightly squeeze the bundle, flattening any leaves down. It also helps if you periodically rotate the stick as it comes together, making the wrapping process altogether much easier. Squeezing also keeps any stray leaves from coming loose or sticking out the sides of the bundle. **Leave a bit of space (about an inch or so) at the top so you can easily light the tip of the stick without catching the string on fire!**

5. Then, with the remaining length of string, wind back around the stick (rotating it as you go) in a criss-cross manner, until you reach the bottom again.

6. Wind the string around near the bottom several times so it doesn't come apart. Tie the two string ends together, or just overlap them as you wind it, making certain they are secure!

*EXTRA STEP*   7. Lastly, trim the top portion of your smudge stick flat with scissors or a knife: this supposedly helps the smudge burn easier, although I'm guessing this depends on personal preferences yet again  :)  I left my first stick in its 'natural' state, which I sort of like -- it's a bit more organic that way!

As you read above, you can dry your new smudge stick either by hanging it upside down, or by wrapping in newspaper for several days (sometimes as long as a week, depending on humidity levels).

How to Burn your Smudge Stick
Light the tip of the stick well. Make sure the sage has plenty of air for the flame to really get going. Allow the sage to smolder. Use a feather or other fanning device (your hands work just as well) to direct the smoke where you'd like it to travel. Inhale the smoke lightly as you visualize all negativity leaving your body and environment.

To easily put out the smudge, have a plate (or traditionally, an abalone shell) filled with a bit of sand nearby. When you are finished, put the sage out in the sand by lightly tamping it down until extinguished. Stored properly, a sage stick can last for years of use!

Some Ways to Use Your Smudge Stick
Burn to help guide you in meditation
Use during ritual, worship or prayer
Cleansing yourself/others
Cleansing your home indoors
  Cleansing your property outdoors
  Sage is a wonderful offering for your god/dess , as are many fragrant incenses