African Violets 101 - Part 1

Part 1

Here are some photos of my African Violets to get things started off. I will get into more technical stuff later on, i.e. AV history, origins, Latin name, etc. (I use AV as an abbreviation for African Violet)

Photo #1: AV on a humidity tray in an eastern exposure – Note: the little chef to the right... I accidentally broke him =( I felt super bad about it after the fact. Dang!!!! =(

Photo #2: AV getting watered from below, the best way to guarantee that you don't accidentally get water on the leaves, causing spotting to your plants. This spotting cannot be removed once present. The only option is to completely remove the AV leaf! Make sure you also take the stem of the leaf as well. Leaving it attached the plant without the leaf will cause the stem to die and rot away. Not good! And not very flattering to your plant, either.

Photo #3: The group on the windowsill. These plants are all larger now, since these photos are at least a year old or more (I think, but I honestly am not sure!)

Photo #4: Baby AV plants, grown from 2 single violet leaves. There are several babies in this one pot, which later needed separating. I allowed baby AV's to grow freely in this same pot since I thought it would look cool and fuller with all the leaves. Only later did I find out how hard separating them was.

Take it from me – plant only one cutting (AV pup) per pot in the early growth stage. These are most commonly grown from stem tip cuttings taken from the mother plant. (Please see below for information on stem tip cuttings.) In short, it’s much easier to care for the cutting to start off if you keep it singular . =)

Note: Later, once your AV matures and blooms, you can group it with other AV’s for an attractive shock of color and beauty to add charm to any room! 2 or 3 plants to a container will do nicely.

Photo #5: Av's in bloom. I was at Trader Joe's with Mom one summer and they had 3 AV plants in the same pot, all blooming!! Each was a different color (white, purple, and pink, if I recall). I couldn't resist buying one (or three, that is.) Since this photo was taken, the plants have been separated into individual pots.

How to Root AV Leaves (Stem tip cuttings)

1. Find a healthy AV leaf that's a nice shade of green. Using sharp, clean scissors, snip it well below the leaf, leaving plenty of the juicy stem. (You can dip the cutting in rooting hormone if you desire, but personally I haven't had to do this. If you are impatient waiting for plants to root, however, this may be your best bet!)

2. Next, using well aerated soil, fill your chosen container just about to the top, with about a half inch of room to water (if you want to water from above).

3. Make sure it's equipped with a drainage hole! Please do not compress the soil! Using a pencil, or your finger, make a hole in the soil.

4. Stick the stem tip down into the hole, leaving some stem visible above the soil surface. Lightly firm up the soil around the cutting.

5. Go easy on the watering until roots begin to form (about 3-5 weeks, or more, depending on the location, humidity etc. The 'time-to-root-formation' will vary depending on whether or not you used rooting hormone.) To test the roots, give the cutting a gentle tug, but don't mangle it or rip it out! Soon you will begin to see little AV leaves creeping up around the cut stem. Try not to get water on them!

6. Once the baby plant looks fairly large (about 2 months, maybe less depending on humidity and light conditions) cut away the original leaf from the baby plant. Pot up in whatever container you like, or leave the baby in the current pot. The choice is yours! (Photo showing the old leaf completely removed. Plant is still small, but fully mature enough to bloom.)

In general, A high humidity room will help the cutting root faster, as well as assist your AV's by giving them a growth boost--mature plants, or otherwise. As for sunlight for your AV cutting, the best location would likely be wherever your other Av's are currently residing (probably an East or West window. My best friend keeps her Violet in a Northern window, and it's constantly in bloom. The choice is really a matter of personal preference.)

Warning! A Southern exposure will cook your AV. Yikes! NOTE. **If you are not sure what window faces which direction, get an expensive compass to help you locate true North, and go from there** With a bit of patience, you will have brand new AV's ready to pot up! More photos of my AV propagation are now posted above. =)

You can 're-use' the same AV leaf to grow multiple plants if you wish. Simply re-cut the same stem after removing it from the baby AV, and repeat steps 2-6. If the leaf has rotted or is no longer green, discard it.

Be persistant and do not give up! Not every cutting is sure to become a new plant! If you meet the proper conditions (and increase humidity) you will be successful! **Soil, watering and drainage is the key. Too much water = rotting plant. Poor soil = rotting plant due to lack of drainage, fungus gnats and more. Also, Too much sun = cooked plants. Keep at it and don't doubt yourself!!

More to come in African Violets in Part 2!

Lithops 101

Lithops spp. (Living Stones)

Lithops is a genus of succulent plants native to Southern Africa. "Lithos" means "stone" and "-ops" means "face" in Ancient Greek; therefore "Lithops" means "stone-like". The formation of the name from the Greek "ops" means that even a single plant is called a Lithops. This is a very good description of these plants, which avoid being eaten by blending in with surrounding rocks. They are also called ‘pebble plants’.

The genus Lithops is in the family of Aizoaceae, which also includes the various forms of plants known as "Ice Plants" and those called "Mimicry Plants". Lithops are commonly called Living Stones because of their remarkable resemblance to rocks on the ground. In a rock covered landscape, they are nearly indistinguishable from actual stones. In fact, the plant’s ability to blend in using its color and shape is the most startling adaptation of Living Stones. The leaves are not green as with many foliage plants, but various shades of cream, grey, brown, reddish browns, purplish browns, and grass-greens with a myriad of patterns such as darker windowed areas and designs, dots, red lines and areas known as "islands".

There are well over 300 types of Lithops. Several types differ in nearly all areas including texture, size and color. They may look similar, but are in fact very unique. No two Living Stone plants are going to look exactly alike. They are popular novelty house plants and many specialist succulent growers maintain collections.

Individual plants consist of one or more pairs of bulbous, nearly fused leaves opposite to each other and hardly any stem. The slit between the leaves contains the meristem and produces flowers and new leaves— leaves which are mostly buried below the surface of the soil. They have a characteristic top to the leaf which is a partially (or completely) translucent surface (or window) allowing light to enter the interior of the leaves for photosynthesis.

Lithops are extremely succulent bilobes (up to 90% water). A single body can be to 1.5" in diameter, and is split by a central "cleft", creating the "bi-lobed" body. Many species eventually form clusters, and in the native habitat, clusters gradually spread to from large colonies of Lithops that can span 6 feet in diameter. The rarer green forms occur naturally in grassy areas, while the browns, tans and other colors occur in quartz fields, providing an example of a phenomenon known as "mimicry" in which a plant, insect or animal can become almost completely camouflaged by its surroundings and is virtually undetectable. This ability to blend in helps Lithops avoid predators – The markings on the leaves disguise the plant in its surroundings from hungry animals that would otherwise feast on its tender, fleshy bodied leaves.

Climate: Lithops occur naturally across wide areas of Namibia and South Africa, as well as small bordering areas in Botswana and possibly Angola, from sea level to high mountains. Nearly a thousand individual populations are documented, each covering just a small area of dry grassland, veld, or bare rocky ground. Different Lithops species are preferentially found in particular environments, usually restricted to a particular type of rock. Lithops have not naturalized outside this region.

Rainfall in Lithops habitats ranges from approximately 700mm/year to near zero. Rainfall patterns range from exclusively summer rain to exclusively winter rain, with a few species relying almost entirely on dew formation for moisture. Temperatures are usually hot in summer and cool to cold in winter, but one species is found right at the coast with very moderate temperatures year round.

Lithops often survive many years of drought with nothing more than seasonal fogs. These plants have evolved a strategy that enables them to absorb and store moisture from these scant fogs. As our climate is much more humid than that of Africa, Lithops can absorb much of its required moisture from the air.

Growth Habit: Lithops tend to grow in the winter and rest in the summer, contrary to many other plants! During winter a new leaf pair, or occasionally more than one, grows inside the existing fused leaf pair. In spring the old leaf pair parts to reveal the new leaves and the old leaves will then dry up. The leaves may shrink and disappear below ground level during drought. Within their native habitat, plants almost never have more than one leaf pair per head, the environment is just too arid to support this. Yellow or white flowers emerge from the fissure between the leaves after the new leaf pair has fully matured, one per leaf pair. This is usually in autumn, but can be before the summer equinox in L. pseudotruncatella and after the winter equinox in L. optica. The flowers are often sweetly scented.

After the plant flowers, the plant will rest for a short time. Then from the middle again two new leaves will start to form. They will take all the moisture and nutrients from the old leaves. This is why it is important not to water/fertilize (it will disrupt the process). The old leaves will shrivel and die and the new ones will come in and replace the old ones. After that point in time it is safe to resume watering/fertilizing!

Lithops' fruit is a dry capsule that opens when it becomes wet; some seeds may be ejected by falling raindrops, and the capsule re-closes when it dries out. Capsules may also sometimes detach and be distributed intact, or may disintegrate after several years.

Summer Dormancy vs. Winter Growth: Normal treatment in mild temperate climates is to keep them completely dry during winter, watering only when the old leaves have dried up and been replaced by a new leaf pair. Watering continues through autumn when the plants flower and then stopped for winter. The best results are obtained with additional heat such as a greenhouse. In hotter climates, the plant will have a summer dormancy when they should be kept mostly dry, and they may require some water in winter. In tropical climates, Lithops can be grown primarily in winter with a long summer dormancy. In all conditions, Lithops will be most active and need most water during autumn and each species will flower at approximately the same time.

Soil Type: Lithops thrive best in a coarse, well-drained substrate. Any soil that retains too much water will cause the plants to burst their skins as they over-expand. Plants grown in strong light will develop hard strongly colored skins which are resistant to damage and rot, although persistent overwatering will still be fatal. Excessive heat will kill potted plants as they cannot cool themselves by transpiration and rely on staying buried in cool soil below the surface.

Lithops requires a porous soil; note that very excellent drainage can be attained by the addition of extra pumice or other coarse material. It is preferable that the soil does not contain much organic material, such as peat moss and that the plant is not fertilized with heavy nitrogen as this can cause an explosion of soft, flabby growth that can make the plant prone to bacterial rots. Another good mix would be 40% peat moss and 60% perlite to allow even faster drainage.

What pot should I use for my Living Stones? In my opinion, plastic or terracotta pots are best. Since Living Stones are a succulent, a terracotta pot will not only fit the succulent theme (sand, rocks, deserts, etc) but also might help the plant dry out a bit easier. Since terracotta is porous, water goes through it easily, helping the pot dry out as well as the plant – especially if it’s in a sunny location! You could also use a glazed pot if you desire. In design terms, a glass container would look striking and allow you to watch the plants’ roots grow and develop—a very cool idea, indeed! Just be sure the glass container has a drainage hole. Many glass containers do NOT normally have a drainage hole, so please be cautious!

Light: Lithops requires full to very bright sun (either direct or indirect). Shade will kill this plant! It can take full strength sun, but be mindful of sun burning the leaves (I know this from personal experience). If your plant is in full sun, be sure to water every week (instead of every two--see below).

A window facing West, South or East should do nicely. Too much light is not a problem for Living Stones. Too little light is! If the plant appears to be 'reaching' for the window or light source, it needs more light! Stretching will cause the Living Stones to lose their rock like appearance and grow taller. If this begins happening, simply find another place with more light.

In the wintertime during active growth, you may want to move Living Stones closer to a window – they need as much light as possible when producing new leaves. The rest of the year, they still need sufficient light, but even if they aren’t right next to a window, be sure they can get some bright sunlight. Where you place your plants really depends on your window access (a house may have several whereas an apartment or other place may have only one or two) and your available space for plants. If you’re already obsessed with plants, the chances are good your space may be limited! The good news is: Living Stones tend to be small kept singly or in clusters. Plants grow slowly and don’t need huge pots or containers. If your plant space is limited, Living Stones may be a plant for you!

Watering: Keep plants barely moist! Overwatering is the most common problem people have with Living Stones. Overwatering will result in the death of this plant 9 times out of 10. One Lithops expert once remarked in regard to watering Lithops: "When in doubt, don't". During the cold winter months, watering should be light and infrequent once again, until such as time as the days grow longer and the temperature begins to warm a bit.

Generally, Lithops will do best being watered about once every two or three weeks (when not in active growth or flowering). Tap water or distilled water is fine. Treat it as a cactus. The plant can take a 'misting' every other day if desired, but this is not required. Be sure not to overwater! It will take up all the water that is put in the pot, even if its too much!

This next part is very important!!  Keep in mind, watering requirements will change throughout the year depending on which season you are currently in!! Lithops is a very unique succulent with unique watering requirements. Since overwatering is the number one cause of death for Lithops, it’s imperative growers learn exactly when (and when not) to water. For this reason, keeping these plants alive takes a bit of time and skill!

Spring:
The plant is dormant now. Water only if the leaves appear wrinkled.

Summer:
During the hot summer months the plants will be dormant and watering should be light and infrequent, only enough should be given to prevent the plants from shriveling or appearing "wrinkled".

Fall:
After the hottest part of summer, as autumn approaches, the plant will use most of its stored energies to flower. The appearance of buds signals the start of another watering period. Plants should be watered enough during this time that the bodies remain turgid, or, in other words, do not become "wrinkled". Watering should be thorough, but less frequently than for other succulents.

After the flower dies off, ALL WATERING/FERTILIZING SHOULD BE STOPPED!!

Winter:
Water should be withheld as the new leaves begin to appear in the cleft during winter time. You must do this so that newly forming leaves are allowed to absorb the moisture from the old leaves, or the plant will be more prone to rot and the new plant formed will be smaller than before, rather than growing larger as it should. When it is apparent that the new leaves have absorbed the moisture from the old leaves ~ nothing but a dry husk will remain of the old leaves ~ that is the signal that it is time to begin watering normally again.

What happens if I overwater?
If you have consistently overwatered Living Stones, it will likely die, especially if planted in the wrong kind of soil (soil that retains lots of water, such as peat moss). If you’ve only overwatered once or twice, the plant will fill itself with water and ‘bulge’ out. Anymore water at this point can burst the leaves. Your best option is to withhold watering again until the leaves have once more reduced to normal size. Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch during the active growing periods. If the plant is shriveled during the non-growing periods, water a very little bit, just so the leaves perk up.

I repeat, if too much water is given at ANY time, the plant will swell and then split. If this happens, you cannot go back!! Take care when watering, and water sparingly. Take note of the seasons, and be confident in your Green Thumb!

Temperature: Living Stones will do fine in just about any temperature that it is given. Naturally found in the deserts of South Africa, the plant will do fine with hotter temperatures. Lithops are somewhat cold tolerant, but it is advisable to provide frost protection to prevent possible scarring. Colder temperatures are okay, but by no means ideal. Do not allow your plant to freeze. If this happens, the plant will die. Lithops prefers a wide spectrum of temperatures above 50 degrees, pushing into the 90-100 degree range (that being the absolute hottest the plant can handle). Ideally, you want your plant to thrive at a temperature around 65 to 75 degrees.

Flowering: Flowers appear from August to November, depending upon the species, and usually open in late afternoon, but open on multiple days. At this time, the plant is nearly obscured by flower heads to 1" in diameter that are composed of frilly, satiny yellow or white petals.

Living Stones will typically bloom in the fall. A blooming plant means it is at least 2 to 3 years old (juvenile plants cannot bloom since they need a ton of energy to do so). Only mature plants that are well cared for will bloom. Often times Living Stones only bloom in greenhouse environments or for professional growers. If your plant does bloom, it must like its location and current conditions! Daisy-like flowers of white or yellow last about a week and then die. Give the plant no water or fertilizer when it’s flowering, as this will interrupt the natural cycle (something you should avoid!)

Propagation: Propagation of Lithops is best done by seed or cuttings. Cuttings can only be used to produce new plants after a plant has naturally divided to form multiple heads, so most propagation is by seed. Lithops can readily be pollinated by hand, and seed will be ripe about 9 months later. Seed is easy to germinate, but the seedlings are small and vulnerable for the first year or two.

Fertilization: Fertilizer is a requirement that is of some debate with growers. To play it safe use a diluted amount of 20-20-20 plant food (about 1/4 strength) will be fine about once a month. Do not exceed this amount! After the plant flowers in late fall/early winter, no fertilizer should be applied to the plant until after the new growth comes in.

Reproduction: Living Stones will reproduce themselves by runner (a 'root' that will spread out). A new plant will come up (usually by the parent.)

Do’s and Dont’s:
Do not water or fertilize your plant when it is producing new leaves. This will disrupt the process which it needs to complete uninterrupted at this time.

Do not overwater your plant. It will swell and sometimes split. If this happens special chemicals will need to be applied so that bacteria does not enter the plant and cause it to die. If this is not done in time, the plant must be discarded and replaced.

Do give Lithops adequate fresh air and bright, indirect light. Full sun is excellent when and if the plant(s) are properly acclimated to the sunlight. If they have been grown in partial sun before being moved, move them steadily up to the window a little at a time over a period of about 2 weeks or so. By the end of 2 weeks, the plant will be fully acclimated to a full sun environment and will likely not sun burn!

In all, Lithops may seem like a daunting plant to successfully grow in the home, but with the proper education and patience, you can (and will) succeed. Pay attention closely to the watering requirements with this plant. I cannot over state this enough! If you have any questions about Lithops or other succulents, please email me at: espressomocha86@hotmail.com Please include pictures of the plant(s) in question if at all possible! Friend me on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/eirinn.cunningham

Leave me a comment below this post! I appreciate your readership!! I hope your day is truly amazing…May your plants enrich and restore your spirit!

Caring For Houseplants While On Vacation

When You’re Away, Houseplants Will Play!
Keep your plants healthy and happy while you are away using these helpful tips:

Outdoors
If you often vacation in the summertime (when temperatures are warm), put temporarily orphaned plants outside. They appreciate the warm temperature and fresh air just like we do!

Water all your plants (both indoors and out) thoroughly before you leave the house. Some plants will be fine with just the one watering. Others will need constant moisture to some degree (to provide this, use the tub method, below; or try the wicking system, also described below).

If you have potted plants outside that concern you because you aren’t able to bring them in, sink the pot and all directly into the ground (especially if the pot is clay or terracotta) – The pot will soak up the surrounding moisture in the soil and utilize it for your plants.

To do this, simply dig a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the pot, and the same depth. Sink the pot into the hole; firm soil around it. If it rains, your plant will love the drink! When you return, dig up the pot and rinse it clean.

**Warning**  Just in case you are in a wet climate or swampy type area, I recommend you do not leave cacti or succulents outdoors while away – even if they are potted. Do not use the sinking pot technique with cacti! The wet area will prove too moist for a succulent (such as Aloe Vera or Jade Plant). If you insist on putting these plant types outside, place them in a shaded area on a table or surface away from the ground; you wouldn’t want them going mushy!

Outdoor plants don’t do well in direct sun. Choose good places such as under a tree, or at the side of the house in the shade. They will use much less water than normal when shaded.

Your outdoor plants will also be watered by the sprinkler (assuming you have one!)

Also, it's a good idea to place those moisture loving plants in a kiddy pool filled with a bit of water to give them plenty to drink!

Try to be gone no longer than 2 weeks. If your trip lasts longer, have someone come to house sit.

Indoors
You can place plants (that are in clay pots) in the tub to water them while absent. Use unglazed bricks to set them on in the tub with just a few inches of water. Make sure water is touching the bricks. Your plants will absorb the water through the bricks (they are porous, just like terracotta) and then on up through the pots to your plant.

If your plants are in the bathroom for the duration of your trip, be sure to leave the lights on in the room. They will benefit from the fluorescent lights (even if the bulbs are standard types, the plants will still appreciate the light) which will effectively replace natural sunlight.

Setting Up a Simple Wicking System

A. Place plants in a circle around a large container of water

B. Use cotton twine and place one end deep into the water, with the opposite end set into each pot; bury this end a little bit in the soil

C. Make sure the water container itself is higher up than the actual pot. Gravity will drag the water down to your plants via the string

D. Be sure the leaves do not touch the string! Otherwise, they will get too wet and rot! Your plants should stay nice and evenly moist for those shorter trips! Tip: For water loving plants like a Peace Lily, set 2 water containers nearby, and wick 2 strings into the pot instead of one. That should easily satisfy Peace Lily's never ending greed for more ((and still more)) water!

With these easy tips for plant vacation care, you'll never have to worry about coming home to a bunch of dead houseplants ever again! Vacation with confidence!

Orchid Care 101

Orchids (Orchidaceae spp.) grow naturally in tropical environments like a rain forest. They are a  large group of flowering plants with over 22,000 known species, and are perhaps the second largest group of flowering plants in the world. Some orchids even grow on rocks near rivers or streams where they receive constant moisture. Orchids also grow dangling from the branches of trees. Over time, these beautiful plants have adapted to warm, humid places. The easiest way to care for orchids is to try mimicking these conditions as closely as possible in your home. 

They have a reputation for being difficult to care for, but given the  right conditions, and assuming their needs are well met, they can live for years just like any other exotic houseplant. What most people don’t realize is that orchids love water and humidity. Because of this, orchids need a good draining mix and lots of air circulation – both down in the roots and around the entire plant. Orchids DO NOT grow in potting soil – this would most assuredly kill them! Instead, they are grown in a light, airy bark mix and clay, terracotta or glazed pots. Orchid pots have holes throughout the pot, in order to let the plant's roots breathe.

Light
Most orchids love bright, indirect light (but not full sun). A southern window is the ideal location for most orchids, except Lady’s slipper and Moth orchids, which prefer less light (East or West facing windows are best). Place your orchids back a bit from the window to avoid direct sun.

Northern light would not be good for any type of orchid – In order to grow well they must have lots of bright light. Consequently, a northern exposure does not offer this important requirement. In case northern light is all you have, you can successfully grow orchids using only fluorescent lighting.

Watering
Although many orchid tags state “just three ice cubes every week” is enough water for your orchid, this is not true! Don’t believe it! The fact is, orchids need more water than just three measly ice cubes can provide.

That said, overwatering is probably the number one reason orchids (and in fact all houseplants) die. The second reason (magnified if the plant is already being overwatered) is lack of proper light. While watering your orchid isn’t an exact science, learning the needs of you particular plant will help you to better meet its watering needs. All orchids have slightly different needs. Even so, your best bet is to drench the plant and let it dry out slightly before the next watering. In general, it’s good to water your orchid every 7 - 10 days.

There are two good ways to water your orchid. The first is to bring it to the kitchen sink. Run it under water until the bark (or whichever growing media you have for your orchid) is thoroughly saturated. Drench well. It should drain freely – the last thing anybody wants is a soggy, wet orchid mix! These beauties need a steady supply of moisture. However, be careful not to overwater. It’s better to forget a watering than it is to water too much.

The second way you can water your orchid is: submerge the plant pot into a stock pot or bucket of room temperature water. The water level should come up to just above the lip of the pot. Leave the plant there for about 10 minutes. Take the orchid out of the bucket and allow it to drain thoroughly.

One symptom of underwatering is wrinkled leaves. If you notice the foliage wrinkling, try watering your orchid a bit more next time.

Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing foliage. If you notice this symptom, it means the roots are slowly rotting; the plant can’t handle too much water! Let it dry out thoroughly before you water again. However, yellowing leaves can also indicate underwatering, so try and keep track of how often (and how much) you water. I’m not asking you to measure the water out, just keep it in mind!

Checking the Moisture Level
Use a pencil (point side down) in the media to check the moisture level of the orchid. Leave it buried for about 10 minutes. If the pencil is dry on the end when you check it, you need to water the plant. If the pencil is moist, wait before you water again.

Humidity
Orchids love humidity since it reminds them of their natural growing conditions. There are several ways you can boost humidity around your orchid:

1. Use a humidity tray. These can be purchased specifically for orchids, African Violets, and other humidity-loving plants. Or, to save a trip to the plant shop – create your own humidity trays using a plastic drip tray filled with glass gems, stones, bark, or even sea shells. Set the orchid onto the stones, and then fill the tray to just beneath the bottom of the plant pot. Change out the water every two weeks and keep an eye out for empty trays… The more often you fill the tray, the better your orchid will do!

2. Mist your orchid whenever you water, or more even frequently if you live in a hot, dry place. If your home has very dry air, try misting daily

3. Use a humidifier in the same room as your plant. This will boost the ambient humidity around your plants, and they will reap the rewards! Leave it running whenever you feel your plants need a humidity boost

Use something like this tray filled with gems and shells (above), which also works well for African Violets. Of course, for your orchid you will surely need something a lot larger than what's above!

4. Group your orchids close together, even on the same humidity tray. The plants will benefit from the moisture expelled and take it in through their leaves

A Specialized Plant Part
Some orchids have a feature on the base of the plant called a psuedobulb, which stores water (exactly like cacti and succulents store water in their leaves). These orchid types love water. When you water, just drench the plant. Before you water again, allow the orchid to approach some level of dryness. This is very important, since psudobulb orchids will utilize the water they already have stored. A psudobulb is exactly like the hump on a camel’s back. Remember this fact the next time you water! (Keep in mind: some orchids don’t have a psudobulb, so it’s a good idea to look at the base of your orchid to see which type you have)

Media and Fertilizer
Orchid growing media is usually composed of some combination of: Fir bark, perlite, and charcoal. Occasionally you’ll see coconut husk fibers included in the mixture. Orchid planting mix/media will drain very generously. Fir bark is very low in nutrients, so your orchid will need to be fertilized with a balanced fertilizer (such as 20-20-20 or 10-10-10) from time to time to maintain its beautiful blooms and foliage. When fertilizing an orchid, please remember: a little goes a long way! Use a water soluble fertilizer every other time you water – even in the winter! Shock! You won’t hear me say that very often! Be sure to fertilize monthly in the wintertime.

Types of Orchids
There are many kinds of orchids available for you to choose from. If you have eastern or western facing windows where you already keep plants, your best choices are the Moth or Slipper Orchid variety (since these prefer less light). If you have a southern or western window, look for any of the other plants listed below. Florescent lights are also available if you don’t have a South, East or western exposure to take advantage of.

Buttonhole Orchid
(Epidendrum spp.)
Blooms: Clusters of small flowers
Light: Bright light is best
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Cactus Orchid
(Epiphyllum spp.)
Blooms: Large, bright flowers
Light: Medium to bright light is best
Water: Keep this plant barely moist at all times (slightly wet); water less than other orchids

Corsage Orchid
(Cattleya spp.)
Blooms: Big, frilled blooms used to make corsages, hence the name.
Light: Bright light is best. Direct sun in the morning is okay, with just a bit in the afternoon
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Clamshell Orchid
(Encyclia spp.)

Blooms: Clusters of numerous small flowers

Light: Bright light is best

Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Cymbidium Orchid
(Cymbidium spp.)

Blooms: Long lasting flowers, grass-like foliage

Light: Bright light is best

Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings



Dancing Lady Orchid
(Oncidium spp.)

Blooms: This orchid’s flower actually looks like a little dancing lady in a dress, hence its name. The plant can produce up to 100 small blooms at once! Colors include red, white and yellow. The flowers have the scent of chocolate!
Light: Bright to intense light is best. Protect from direct sun if placed outdoors in the summertime
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings. Can have pseudobulbs.

Dens, Spray Orchids
(Dendrobium hybrids)
Blooms: Attractive flowers last for weeks at a time. Yellow, red, pink, or violet colors.
Light: Bright to intense light is best.
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings. Keep in mind their cane-like stems store water! Some varieties also have pseudobulbs.

Jewel Orchid
(Ludisia discolor)
Blooms: Maroon colored leaves with silver veins
Light: Medium light is best
Water: Keep plant evenly moist (drench, then water again just before the media dries out on top)

Moth Orchid
(Phalaenopsis spp.)
Blooms: Flowers last 6 weeks or longer and come in colors of white, pink or yellow, with a network of colorful veins throughout the petals. The flowers are moth shaped, hence the name
Light: Medium to bright; less light than most other orchids. Place the plant in an eastern or western exposure
Water: Allow media to go dry (about 1 inch below the surface) between waterings

Odontoglossum Orchid
(Odontoglossum spp.)
Blooms: Dramatic arching flower spray
Light: Bright light is best
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Lady’s Slipper Orchid
(Paphiopedilun spp.)
Blooms: The blooms include a pouch which looks like a slipper, giving this orchid its name. Blooms can last for 8 weeks, sometimes more. Strap-like leaves with large, waxy flowers. Comes in pink, brown, or white colors.
Light: Needs less light than most other orchids, on the moderate side. An eastern or western exposure will do nicely. Protect from direct sun if placed outdoors in the summertime
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Spider Orchid
(Brassia spp.)
Blooms: Spider-like flowers with graceful stems
Light: Bright to intense light is best
Water: Allow media to go slightly dry between waterings

Tailed Orchid
(Masdevallia spp.)
Blooms: Showy tailed flowers
Light: Medium to bright light is best
Water: Keep plant barely moist at all times

Vanda Orchid
(Vanda hybrids)
Blooms: Large long lasting flowers
Light: Bright to intense light is best
Water: Allow media to go dry between waterings

This post was made especially for one of my readers, Joe's Blog, who asked me a question about her orchid. Thanks for reading! And to all of you, good luck caring for and selecting your orchids! Have an awesome day =)

Cacti and Succulent Care

Let me ask you a question: do you love cacti? Are you utterly intrigued by the odd, weird shapes and flowers produced by these plants, but somehow you always kill them? Read below to find several ways to prevent this, and to help your beloved plants thrive!

1 - The most important step to not kill your cacti is this: DO NOT OVERWATER! You may want to water all your plants at the same time, on the very same day. However, this can’t be done with cacti (that is, unless cacti are the only plants you keep) because they typically need much less water than other houseplants.

I've said it before, I'll say it again (and again, and again): Overwatering is the NUMBER ONE cause of houseplant death, particularly cacti!!

Most cacti don’t like a lot of water. The reason for this is that cacti hold water inside their leaves and stems. Over time they use this stored water until it is depleted. If you accidently give your plant too much, the roots may begin to rot, so be careful.

2 - If your plant is very small, only give it enough water to completely cover the top of the soil, about once every 2 weeks or so (when it’s located in a sunny window - read on to learn about how much sunlight cacti needs). This may seem like too little, but don’t worry!The plant will tell you when it needs more water by ‘thinning out’ or wrinkling its leaves. Over time, you will anticipate the plant’s need for water and be able to water it before this occurs.

3 - If it is a larger plant, cover the surface of the soil with water – fully and evenly – until it sinks to the bottom. *Larger plants will need more water than smaller ones, since their size causes them to utilize more water. Make sure the soil is fully saturated. Water these larger plants once every month or so, unless the plant is plump and cold to the touch. This means the plant has sufficient water stored.

4 - Let the soil dry out between waterings! If your plants’ soil feels wet to the touch, don’t give it any water yet. Simply use your index finger to check the moisture in the soil. Place your finger down into the soil itself. Is it wet or dry? This method will help you keep track of your plant’s moisture level.

5 - Make sure your cacti are planted in the right kind of soil. Cactus soils are lighter and contain perlite (little white bits) which help make the soil airier and also allows for greater drainage. The soil usually contains sand as well, further adding to plant drainage. Drainage is VERY important to cacti – they prefer to be left on the drier side (i.e. think desert conditions!)

Regular potting soil will not cut it! It will retain too much water and rot your plants! Taking the extra step to have the right kind of soil will help make all the difference! If you buy a new succulent plant, check the soil. Most of the time, these plants will already be in cactus mix, but it’s a great idea to check just in case.

6 - Mind the plant pot! If you need/want to repot your plant into a decorative container you bought specifically for your new purchase, check the pot to be sure it has a drainage hole. If you leave it in the pot from the store, check for drainage holes!

7 - Give your cacti good sunlight! A western or southern window will do nicely for these houseplants. Cacti need lots of (direct) sunlight to do well, so be sure to put them in a bright, sunny window. If you don’t have a west/south window, put your plants in the brightest location you have! Shaded areas are not good for cacti, so keep this in mind when you go plant shopping! Follow these simple steps, and you'll never suffer another dead cactus ever again!

Snake Plant 101 - Taking 'Easy' to a New Level

Snake plant (Sansevieria), A.K.A Mother-In-Law’s Tongue, is a succulent plant, which means the leaves retain lots of water, similar to a cactus. You can recognize snake plants by their long, pointed, upright leaves which look very much like snakes, giving the plant its name. It is green in color, but sometimes has yellow edges.

1) When it’s time to buy a new plant, be sure to select a healthy looking plant that is a deep green. Pale leaves mean the plant may already be suffering at the store, and there’s no reason to waste your money on snake plant that’s growing poorly before you even get it home!

2) Often times when you buy a new houseplant, you should repot it into a new pot with fresh soil ASAP. If the roots appear above the soil, the plant definitely needs to be repotted. Also, if the pot from the store is simply a cheap plastic pot, I recommend you repot your new plant. It will be much happier that way!

3) Give snake plant sufficient light. The plant will thrive in a sunny window facing east, west or south. If you have only a north facing window, don’t despair! Snake plant handles a variety of light situations very well. If you can only provide minimal light, the plant will be fine. Later, when the opportunity presents itself, move snake plant to a sunnier window. The more sun it gets, the faster it will grow!

4) Water sparingly. A succulent holds lots of water inside its leaves, and if you give it too much water, the plant will rot. By sparingly, I mean water every two to three weeks (In the summer time, the plant will use more water, especially if it's in a very sunny location. In winter, the plant uses less water, so be sure to adjust accordingly). Use room temperature water so the roots don’t get shocked. Wet the top of the soil thoroughly, but be sure not to drown the plant! You are better off watering the plant too little than too much!

5) Feed the plant with a tiny amount of general all purpose plant food (the kind you dissolve in water) in the spring and summer. Because this is the primary growing time for snake plant, it will thank you for the extra growth boost the fertilizer provides. Put the fertilizer in your favorite watering jug, and just fertilize every time you water. In fall and winter, stop fertilizing – snake plant doesn’t need to be fed at this time of year.

6) Snake plant is extremely forgiving, and in fact will thrive more on neglect rather than too much attention. If you miss a watering, don’t worry! Water the next time you remember. Snake plant will survive in low light conditions, or even full sun! Therefore, snake plant is one of the most common and easy-to-care-for plants you can buy.

Important tip: As I already mentioned, do not overwater! The plant will die if it can’t absorb excess water in the pot. Overwatering is the number one cause of plant death!

If you be sure to give good light and small amounts of water to snake plant about every two to three weeks, it will prosper and bring you joy for many years!

5 Ways Plants Show The Love

Remember a couple blogs ago I mentioned the 5 ways plants show you love? All five mean you are doing a good job with your plant(s), and shows the plant enjoys its current location, etc. Here are they are!

1. A thirsty plant will perk up.
Plants 'droop' if they are thirsty. In some plants, like Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum, commonly called a 'Spath' for short), this effect is very noticeable. Other plants, like African Violet (Saintpaulia species) or the Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), will look....thinner, sort of duller in color, or even display transparent leaves when they need water. Snake plant (Sansevieria) and other succulent varieties will wrinkle their leaves when dry. Give them a good drink and they should bounce back.

2. A well fertilized plant will stay greener longer (and look more beautiful)
Sometimes your plant just needs an extra boost to stimulate new growth. Are you looking for a surefire way to keep older plants looking like they did five years ago? The answer is here: fertilizer. Fertilizers that are water soluble come in the form of little granules you simply add to your watering container. But what do those little numbers mean, you ask? They show how much nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) are present in the fertilizer. So the label 6-12-4 means: 6% nitrogen, 12% phosphorus and 4% potassium. An ideal leaf-developing fertilizer (great for foliage houseplants) would be labeled 30-20-20, whereas a flowering plant like African Violet might go for something like 15-30-15, which is high in phosphorus.

The deal with fertilizer - it really depends on who you ask, and what type of fertilizer you're using. Experts will tell you to fertilize the plant only during its period of growth - typically spring to summertime - and to cease fertilizing during its period of plant rest - fall to wintertime. This is really a matter of personal preference. The key is to use just enough fertilizer to the amount of water - about 1/4 a teaspoon fertilizer to 1 gallon of water. Since most watering cans for indoor use aren't that large, I recommend using just a pinch of fertilizer between your thumb and index finger; or, just a few granules. Add this to your everyday watering container before you water (mine is in the shape of an elephant!) Make sure you always dilute the fertilizer heavily – highly concentrated amounts aren’t good for your plants!

3. Flowering plants will bloom
One of the best examples of this in my opinion is with African Violets (AVs). If the conditions for your plant are being well met, AVs will bloom throughout the year, again and again and again! This fact only helps add to their appeal as a cheery, happy looking houseplant. How do you make them bloom? Light is undoubtedly a key factor, and a source of great debate over the years. Some people claim an east window is the one and ONLY window near which AVs can bloom. For other enthusiasts, a west window is the answer. North windows often have too little light, so the plant will survive okay, but fail to really thrive, therefore yeilding no blooms. My Northeast window seems to be the spot the AVs enjoy most! A dry plant can't bloom, so be sure not to overlook watering on a regular basis. Fertilizing the plant helps blooms develop, also. My advice: be patient, and your plants will bloom! Before you realize it, the plant will be blooming like crazy and look even better than when you bought it! Spaths will also bloom if kept moist (they like a LOT of water) and given good light. They tend to bloom during spring or summer.

4. 'Parental' plants produce 'babies'
Ah, the Spider plant....all those little plantlets give you waves of joy when you see them (if you're like me, that is). I tend to think of this plant the most when I think of baby plants. They create exact mini copies of themselves that look just like the mother plant. The best way to ease the new plant into its own pot is to pin the baby to the fresh soil with a paper clip or some other fastening device. Make sure the pot isn't too large in relation to the plantelet size. Leave the plantlet attached to the mother plant until the new plant roots - anywhere from 2 weeks to one month - and keep the soil in the pot *lightly moist* but not soggy. Misting the plantlet would be a wonderful idea! Once the new roots are developed, sever the plantlet from its mother. If you don’t wish to propagate your spider plant now, you can leave the babies attached to the mother with no ill effects. Older plantlets may not root as well as new ones. They also make excellent gifts for friends, family, or whoever!

5. New leaf growth is a good sign!
Leaf development means the plant loves its conditions just as much as it loves you! New leaves also lead the way to a fuller plant in the future, giving it a more mature look. Whatever watering plan you’ve chosen, stick to it! If the plant likes lots of light, be sure you can provide it before you buy it! Variegated varieties need lots of light to maintain their coloring, so choose wisely.

Your Houseplants and Some Ways to Make Them Love You

There are a few things you can do to make your plants fall in love with you...and they have ways of showing it!

When you walk into a room full of healthy plants, you can just tell. They look nice, and just seem happier in general. You feel happy watching them grow and develop. Showy leaves boast great color and shape, and green leaves are a healthy shade of green - never yellow or brown. A sick plant can have transparent leaves, brown spots, sunburn, or curled leaf margins.

Here are some ways to avoid the sick plant, and keep them looking amazing:

1. Give the plant good light
Good light is essential to plant health. Plants need light for photosynthesis. Too much light can spell death, while too little will equal poor, leggy development. If your plants are reaching for the nearest window, then for Gods' sake, move them closer to that window! Many plants prefer lots of indirect sun, so a west or east window will work the best. Plants that thrive on lower light can handle a north facing window. For those hardcore desert plants like cacti, give them direct sun in a south facing window. A few other full sun plants: Croton, living stones (lithops), Hens and Chicks, Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe), Basil, Chives. Many verigated plant varieties like lots of sun to keep their leaf colors looking nice and sharp!

2. Water should be room temp
Shocking the plant's root system is never a good idea, so avoid this at all costs. Use room temperature water from your tap (or distilled water if you prefer). Make sure the water isn't ice cold, but also not scalding hot: either of these temps can damage the plant! If not exactly room temp, warm water is okay, too.

3. Don't over-water!
Overwatering is the number one cause of plant death. Why? Because nearly everybody does it. Chances are you know at least one friend who’s told you: “I can’t grow plants because I always kill them.” Well the sad reality is, yes, you do. But your friends can change: When it comes to watering, in a lot of cases, less is actually more.

Overwatering can lead to root rot, fungus gnats, and a whole slew of nasty problems, ending even in death. At the very least, why waste the ten bucks you spent for that Peace Lily? Peace Lily is actually a great plant for learning when to water: when the plant is thirsty, it droops. Once you water it, it perks up again. If you buy a cactus, go easy on the watering – cacti hold water in their leaves or stems, so they need much less water than plants which don’t hold water. Here are some VERY loose guidelines for watering (based on how some plant tags are labeled in grocery stores and garden centers):

Water sparingly = water once every two to three weeks
Water frequently = Water twice a week, or when the top half-inch of soil feels dry to the touch
Keep on the dry side = only water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry
Keep plant evenly moist = Keep the soil damp, but not soggy

Never let a plant dry out altogether. Also, make sure your plants don’t sit in water!

4. Select the right size pot for your plant
Make sure your pot size is right for your plant. Too large, and the soil cannot dry out properly. Too small, and the plant will constantly need a drink. Look to plant size when deciding which pot to select. If the plant is 6 ft tall, it will probably need at least a 10, 12 or maybe even a 14 inch pot to accommodate it. If the plant is around 5 or 6'' tall go with a 3 or 4" pot. Select a pot that will fit the root ball comfortably with room for about 1"  of soil around the roots. The pot should also be deep enough for 1 to 1.5” of soil beneath the roots, and about 2” of soil above the roots. Make sure to leave space for watering!

5. Don't skimp on soil...cheap is never good
Cheap soil is (usually) bad soil. It clumps together easily and holds a ton of water, and usually is dark colored. It also becomes as hard as a rock when it dries, making rewatering expressly difficult, since any water you add to the pot just flows down the sides of the rootball. You can buy a ton of this type of soil for very little at the hardware and other stores, but don’t be duped! Plants that like good drainage will suffer from staying too wet! If you absolutely must buy them-- or have friends who like to  buy cheap soil as gifts-- you can amend it with one part sand or perlite to make them a bit lighter.

Better still: buy more aerated soils, like Miracle-Gro Potting Soil (I know people who HATE Miracle-Gro potting mix, but in my opinion, their soil is some of the best on the market! The Miracle-Gro cactus mix is excellent for its namesake, as well as palms, citrus plants, and many succulents). Watch out: when you buy a new plant, in many cases they will already be potted in peat moss, a very wet medium. It holds A LOT of water and can potentially rot your new purchase, so the best thing to do is repot the plant into fresh soil pronto.

6. Provide humidity if needed
Plants like African Violet or Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura ) benefit from increased humidity. Use a pebble tray filled with a bit of water to just below the pebbles. Take care that the plant isn’t sitting in water! The pebbles should keep AV’s above the water. Another way to provide a quick burst of humidity is to mist your plants with a mister bottle. Clean water at room temp is best. Ever been in the grocery store by the veggies when the misters kick on? The water helps produce stay green, and so does your houseplant mister bottle! Bathrooms are an excellent place to keep plants that like lots of humidity, since your bath, shower, toilet and sink all use water, which then evaporates into the air.

Ways your plants show their love:
1. A thirsty plant will perk up
2. A well fertilized plant will stay greener longer (and look more beautiful)
3. Flowering plants will bloom
4. 'Parental' plants produce 'babies'
5. New leaf growth is a good sign!

For more on these 5 ways of plant love, see my next blog!