Plant Pest Series: Part I

7 Steps For Stopping Fungus Gnats in Their Tracks

What Are They? Fungus Gants are tiny flying insects that swarm around affected plants. You may see them on nearby windows, flying above your plants, on the leaves, or even on the table top. Even if you don’t see them there, check the surface of your soil: you will notice little mini insects walking over your soil. They may seem harmless, but think again! Adults can lay 300 eggs at one time, that hatch a week later. They can damage seedlings, stems and plant roots by feeding on them… Gnats are bad news! Read on to learn how to stop them in their tracks!

Preventative Measures
Step 1: Check new houseplants before you buy them! Inspect leaves [particularly the undersides], stems and especially the roots thoroughly for problems. Removing the root ball from the container is okay to do, and is certainly a good idea! Using a finger, disturb the soil a little to see if any gnats fly out. If so, this particular plant is already affected.

If you notice any yellowed leaves, black spots, sunburned leaves, curling, mushy roots (usually dark brown or even blackened in color) or weak stems that easily flop from side to side when shaken, the plant is definitely not for you! It clearly shows signs of neglect, and most likely disease. Be sure and choose a healthier looking plant!

Step 2: Just in case, isolate newly purchased plants for a couple days to see if any problems manifest. Keep them away from all your other plants, so as not to spread any pests to other plants. After a trail period, if no pests show up, put the plant with your others with confidence!

Plants thrive in conditions anywhere between 65 – 75 degrees. Cooler than 65 degrees can result in cold injury, whereas warmer than 75 degrees can parch your plants very quickly and slow their growth. In terms of temperature, the best conditions for plants is in a room kept somewhere between 65 – 75 degrees.

Dealing With Gnats
Step 1: In cases of fungus gnat infestation, soil will be very moist and generally in a warm environment (70 degrees or more). Try lowering room temperature if possible. Or, try move the plant next to a window in the fall and wintertime, where the temperature will be slightly lower.

Step 2: Make sure your plant has good drainage. If not, you may need to repot it (see Step 8)

Step 3: Water a bit less frequently, giving the plant time to dry out just a bit between watering. It should be slightly moist to the touch, but not sopping wet. Let the plants’ soil dry slightly (but not entirely). Drier soul will help kill the larvae (baby fungus gnats) that hatch from microscopic eggs laid by adult gnats within your plant pot. In a moist environment the eggs will hatch, but if the soil is on the dry side, the eggs simply dissolve before they hatch.

Step 4: Wine or apple cider vinegar attracts fungus gnats because of its pungent smell. Place a small bowl of either wine or vinegar near the affected plant(s). This will draw out the adult gnats, which will come to investigate. Upon landing in the bowl, they will quickly drown.

Step 5: Top your plant soil with sand. This makes the soil much less attractive to the fungus gnats, since they prefer moist soil. If they fly to your plant and feel the soil is dry, they won’t bother it. Keep in mind that moist soil underneath the sand will still harbor gnats, so be sure to let the plant dry a little bit.

Step 6: Place homemade gnat traps in your affected plants. They are very easy to make.

You will need:
Popsicle sticks OR a dowel rod OR a chopstick (your choice);
3x5 cards OR heavy-duty paper OR thin cardboard;
Elmer’s glue;
Scotch tape OR masking tape OR double-sided tape (any kind of tape will work, but double-sided tape is especially good for these)
If you'd rather use fly paper traps, you can secure them to the stick the same way as the guy in the photo, below:

1. If using a 3x5 card, leave the size as is. Otherwise, cut the cardboard into 2” by 2” squares for much smaller plants or 4” by 4” for larger plants, etc. (The idea is to make the trap the right size for your plant so it’s not bumping into leaves or stems.)

2. Using the popsicle stick as a base for the trap, glue the 3x5 card to the popsicle stick – you can use two pieces to make the trap double-sided if you wish.

3. Then, using double-sided tape, cover each side of the card completely. Make sure the sticky side faces out [in case you didn’t have any double-sided tape]. Or, use fly paper and secure it to the popsicle stick.

4. Place the traps in your affected soil, sticking them deep enough so they don’t topple over. As the gnats fly about, they will get stuck to the tape and die. Discard traps later. If your infestation is severe, use several traps coupled with any of the other methods described above!

**Making your own traps from scratch will be much cheaper than buying either fly paper or whitefly traps. Whiteflys are another type of houseplant pest -- I will post on them soon! ** If NONE of the above ideas are working, read on:

Step 7: Repot your plant completely in fresh potting soil. To increase drainage, place potsherds or stones in the bottom of the pot before you place in the plant. For additional drainage, mix your standard potting soil with sand [sharp sand is best, or you can use sandbox sand]. Water your plant, and then top the soil with a layer of sand to further deter the gnats from ever coming back again! Good luck!

Keep an eye out for the next part in my Plant Pest Series, Part II: Spider Mites!

The Yellow Houseplant Mushroom...Eww!

There is a phenomena known as the “Yellow Houseplant Mushroom!” wreaking havoc on Southeastern Michiganians and their plants…. Okay, so I’m exaggerating a bit. But seriously – these mushrooms are actually kind of gross! Unless you love fungi, that is.

Let me mention this important fact at the beginning: Yellow mushrooms will NOT harm your houseplants in any way. Nor will they poison you through your fingers if you touch them. These are a few misconceptions people have about houseplant mushrooms.

Note: One thing NOT to do is eat the mushroom; these certainly aren’t of the culinary kind!

Here’s what happens: Yellow mushrooms can spontaneously pop up, literally over night, in your houseplant pots (see photo of my bamboo plant, above). There are a number of conditions that have to be met in order for these mushrooms to grow. If you’ve never seen one, that’s a good thing! Chances are, you won’t want one growing anywhere near your plants! I’ll just tell you what sort of environment they thrive in, so you’ll know how to avoid them.

For a yellow mushroom to grow, you need:
1) Lots of constant moisture – overwatering!
2) Old soil, or soil unchanged for several years
3) ‘Bad’ or cheap soil
4) Lack of good pot drainage

Mushrooms can’t develop in the soil unless your plants meet more than one of the above conditions. If you’re just a chronic overwaterer, don’t worry! Mushrooms likely won’t bother you. But in case your plants meet many of these conditions, keep reading:

Condition 1 only happens if you consistently overwater your plant AND you also meet Condition 4 – a lack of good drainage. If the pot stays very wet all the time without drying out, the conditions are ripe for mushroom development! Ever had mushrooms pop up in the garden and/or your grass after it rains for days? The reason this occurs is because mushrooms grow wherever there’s a ton of moisture. To a lesser degree, fungus also thrives in shaded areas. If your plant is largely shaded, often damp, and lacks efficient drainability, the chances are very good you might see mushrooms soon!

Conditions 2 and 3 are most certainly related. If the soil is old, it’s more prone to mold development and lacks nutrients your plants will need for continuous growth and prosperity. Of my plants that had problems with mold/mushrooms, one was my aloe plant (I was forced to repot it 2 times!), then my spider plant, and finally my bamboo plant. The mold I saw in the soil quickly turned into mushrooms, so watch out! If you observe any mold (particularly yellow) on or in your plant’s soil, it’s time to change the soil, refresh it completely, and repot your plant!

Refreshing the soil is a good idea even if you aren’t experiencing mushrooms, especially if your plant’s growth has slowed down significantly. Also, older pants need to have their soil changed every 3 years or so (sometimes more) since the nutrients will be used up over time. Think of potting soil as a plant’s vitamins; eventually, you’re going to run out and need to buy another bottle. In the same way, your plants will need new soil to keep reaping the benefits of their own ‘vitamins!’ Sorry if that sounded corny, but it seemed to fit!

If your soil is cheap (you bought a lot of soil for only a little money) there’s a chance mushrooms might be present in the soil BEFORE you even buy it! But soil cost aside, the fact is, ALL potting soil contains bacteria necessary for mushroom development and therefore can’t be avoided (unless you follow the steps at the end of this post). The mushrooms need to develop roots and grow, just like any plant you might care for. If you give them the optimum growing conditions [listed above] (even unknowingly) they will appear!

The only difference between the yellow mushrooms and houseplants is that these particular mushrooms are less than desirable, basically useless, and mostly ugly. At best, they could be called upon for interesting conversations amongst your plant/fungi/nature savvy friends and family members, if you have any.

Of course, you really are looking to avoid these conditions altogether – Then, you don’t have to suffer a mushroom invasion! However, if it happens to you (like it did to me) and DO see a mushroom, here’s what to do:

1) Remove the mushroom and discard.

2) Unpot the plant
3) Clean out the original pot, if using again, with soap and water
4) Using brand new potting soil, repot the plant, removing all the old soil from the roots. This ensures all the mold has been cleaned away, and can’t produce any more mushrooms
5) Make sure your plant has better drainage than before
6) Finally, do your best to not overwater!
In case of mushroom attack, follow the above 5 steps, and your plants won’t have to develop the icky, gross, fleshy yellow mushrooms like mine did!

If anyone has experienced this, or needs help getting rid of described mushroom producing conditions, please let me know.
Leave a comment, or email me at: espressomocha86@hotmail.com
Add me on Facebook at www.facebook.com/eirinn.cunningham
Find my Myspace page: www.myspace.com/artist8604

How to Make a Smudge Stick and What to Do With It

I just got a bunch of fresh sage from my Mom's garden today -- I mean there's a ton! My plan is to make a smudge stick -- or several! A few weeks ago I got two fairly big stems of sage (also from my Mom's garden) and dried them in the 'traditional manner' by hanging them upside down for several days in a well ventilated place. To do this, get some thread or string that's thick enough to work with easily; yarn is what I used to hang mine. Wrap the stems of the sage with the yarn several times and tie together tightly. Flip the bundle upside down, and string it up someplace out of the way so you aren't running into it all the time! Hooks or rods, such as for many curtains, are good places for this. In several days, your sage will be dried and ready to use. The first time I dried sage, I just chopped it up, and placed it in a mason jar to either burn on charcoal (for incense) or use in a smudging bowl with other herbs. Either way, sage is excellent for protection and clearing away negativity. Make sure you label your jars or bottles clearly so you don't accidentally forget what's inside!

A Bit of Folklore
Traditionally in the old days, people would use the kitchen area for drying herbs and the like. The hanging of garlic was customary to ward off evil spirits -- hung above or near a doorway, it was thought to form a protective barrier between you and anything trying to gain entry that you desired to keep OUT. Smudging with sage, cedar, or sweetgrass can accomplish this, also. The smoke produced is very cleansing and liberating for mind, body and soul. It can be used to mark a barrier (like your property line) if burned as you walk the perimeter of your home. Sage is also excellent in meditation, holiday celebrations, house blessings/cleanings (or, just because you feel like it!). Sage has long been used in Western magical traditions to aid in both ritual and worship. Of course, sage always makes me think of Native American Indians, whose great Earth wisdom originally taught us the secrets of sage. Tobacco is also considered a sacred plant, and was used for smoking and ritual in much the same manner.

How to Make a Smudge Stick
You will need:
Twine or string, color of your choice
Scissors
Sage, cedar, or other herbs of your choosing
Newspaper (if using for drying)

1. Decide how long you want your smudge stick to be. For a 5" smudge stick, you will need to cut about 10 1/2" of string for wrapping. Having a little extra means you can always trim away the excess string at the end!

 2. Select two, three or four fairly long branches to use for your stick (about 4 - 5"  for a large one or 2 -3" for a smaller one).  If your sage is longer than that, you can cut it to the length you want. The number of branches used is entirely up to you -- it's really about significance or just personal preference. If you want a very thick smudge stick, you may need even more branches!

3. Leaving the leaves attached, place the thickest branches together in the middle, with most of the leaves facing outward. Putting the branches together in the center will allow the smudge stick to have more stability once it dries.

4. Wind the string tightly around the bundle, starting at the bottom and working up to the top. As you do this, use the hand not holding the string to lightly squeeze the bundle, flattening any leaves down. It also helps if you periodically rotate the stick as it comes together, making the wrapping process altogether much easier. Squeezing also keeps any stray leaves from coming loose or sticking out the sides of the bundle. **Leave a bit of space (about an inch or so) at the top so you can easily light the tip of the stick without catching the string on fire!**

5. Then, with the remaining length of string, wind back around the stick (rotating it as you go) in a criss-cross manner, until you reach the bottom again.

6. Wind the string around near the bottom several times so it doesn't come apart. Tie the two string ends together, or just overlap them as you wind it, making certain they are secure!

*EXTRA STEP*   7. Lastly, trim the top portion of your smudge stick flat with scissors or a knife: this supposedly helps the smudge burn easier, although I'm guessing this depends on personal preferences yet again  :)  I left my first stick in its 'natural' state, which I sort of like -- it's a bit more organic that way!

As you read above, you can dry your new smudge stick either by hanging it upside down, or by wrapping in newspaper for several days (sometimes as long as a week, depending on humidity levels).

How to Burn your Smudge Stick
Light the tip of the stick well. Make sure the sage has plenty of air for the flame to really get going. Allow the sage to smolder. Use a feather or other fanning device (your hands work just as well) to direct the smoke where you'd like it to travel. Inhale the smoke lightly as you visualize all negativity leaving your body and environment.

To easily put out the smudge, have a plate (or traditionally, an abalone shell) filled with a bit of sand nearby. When you are finished, put the sage out in the sand by lightly tamping it down until extinguished. Stored properly, a sage stick can last for years of use!

Some Ways to Use Your Smudge Stick
Burn to help guide you in meditation
Use during ritual, worship or prayer
Cleansing yourself/others
Cleansing your home indoors
  Cleansing your property outdoors
  Sage is a wonderful offering for your god/dess , as are many fragrant incenses

Light Requirements Rule of Thumb

Here’s a basic guide for plant light requirements, both indoors and out. My list defines what sun and shade really means, gives a corresponding direction, and offers plants suited to that location! I hope it helps!

Full Sun = 5 + hours of sunlight per day which falls on the plant’s leaves and causes a distinct, sharp shadow behind the plant. Watch for sunburn! Water plant often *unless it has low watering requirements.* Plants like Jade and Aloe don't need a lot of water, even in the summertime! If your plant sits outside in a full sun location, it just might need water every day!
Direction: South
Plants: Cacti, Jade Plant, Echeveria, Croton, Venus Flytrap, Aloe Vera, Chrysanthemum, Sansevieria, Basil, Marigold, most roses

Partial Sun = 3 - 4 hours of sunlight per day, causing a shadow behind the plant. Be cautious of sunburn, water your plant fairly frequently (especially a Peace Lily!)
Directions: Southwest, West
Plants: Peace Lily, Majesty Palm, Norfolk Island Pine, Coleus, Sansevieria, Wormwood, Mugwort, Parlor Palm, Philodendrons

Indirect Sun = 2 - 3 hours of sun per day that’s not falling directly on the leaves, but is rather diffused – obscured by a tree’s leaves or some other object directly in front of the plant. Light in these locations is often diffused or reflected off walls and never direct. Shadow cast is fairly weak
Direction: East
Plants: Pothos, Spider Plant, Lucky Bamboo, Warneckii Dracaena, Janet Craig Dracaena, Palms, African Violet, Sansevieria, Philodendrons, Begonias

Shade = About 1 - 2 hours of sunlight per day, which does not cause a shadow on the plant. Light in these locations is often diffused or reflected off walls and never direct. A window, if present may be far away, such as in a basement environment. Wet soil will take longer to dry out in less sun, so soggy conditions are dangerous!
Direction: North, Northeast
Plants: Sansevieria, Cast Iron Plant, Chinese Evergreen, Ferns, Philodendrons

Full Shade = Less than 1 hour of sunlight per day. No shadow is cast by the plant.
Direction: North
Plants: Belladonna, Persian Shield

Here’s a quick test to be certain of the light levels around your plants: During the day, place your hand between the nearest light source and the plant you want to test. If your hand casts a deep shadow over the plant, you have full or partial sun. If the shadow is less obvious, the light is indirect. If there is little to no shadow, your plant is located in a shaded area. Follow individual plant rewquirements, especially for watering, and only use this information as a general guide. The only way to truly know how your plant will react once in your home is to keep an eye on it -- if it appears to be doing well, don't change a good thing!

If you suspect your plant needs less light, you don’t necessarily need to move the plant to another room altogether. Simply move it back from the light source by a few feet: you will be surprised by the effect!

Peace Lily

Pretty Plant
The Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum-- or Spath for short) has large, oval shaped leaves and white, dainty flowers when in bloom.  My Peace Lily proves time and again its need for LOTS of fresh water. While it does prefer potbound conditions to bloom regularly, this makes watering even more important!  Not only will a pot bound plant "slow down" even during its growing season (usually Spring or Summer), but it will require vast amounts of H2O simply because of a large root system.  A plant that already likes water ((which is also pot bound)) will certainly put a major crimp in your organized, perfectly 'syncd same-day-every-week watering schedule!  Peace Lily likes a lot of water and will require a bit more attention....this I cannot overstate by any means! Give your plant a regular shower every once and a while, both to clean the leaves and boost humidity.

Even so, Peace Lily will fascinate you with its beautiful greenery and pleasant flowers -- if it blooms for you, the chances are your plant enjoys its current location and the light it’s receiving.  An east or west window will do nicely, but a northern exposure will suffice.  Avoid a southern window due to Spath's quick-to-sunburn temperament. In case of sunburned leaves, move the plant away from the window by 3 or 4 feet.  Allow it to still receive good light but not direct sun (See my post about Light Requirements). Peace Lily is well known for it air cleaning abilities, so having one nearby is certainly a plus! Since plants give off oxygen (essential to humans) and absorb CO2 (carbon dioxide), a human waste product, breathing on your plants as you groom or water them is an excellent idea! As you can see, in this way there's a certain symbiotic relationship between the plant kingdom and humankind!

Leaf Tipping
To avoid leaf tipping, use distilled water or rainwater, which can be easily collected: just set out a bowl or deep container outdoors when it rains and then transfer it to a clean milk jug. The chemicals present in our tap water often cause tipping issues! If you'd prefer to not use rain water, use tap water; but keep scissors handy -- snip off brown leaf tips when they appear, cutting just below the healthy green tissue. Cutting into the plant's green section will only cause more tipping! If you absolutely cannot stand tipping, look to plants with rounded leaves only. These plants tip rarely, if at all. Plants with pointed leaves are the most likely to tip. Keep this in mind when you head out to plant shop!

Amaretto Sour Recipe

I know this post has little to do with plants, except maybe the cherries which are grown on trees...LOL. But this was so tasty, I couldn't resist sharing it with you! From now on, look for more great recipes (plant based or otherwise) throughout my blog. Also, click on the recipes label (on the main page) for easier access!

My Amaretto Sour Recipe

You'll need:

A martini shaker
A shot glass
Maraschino cherries
Mr. Boston Amaretto (or Disaronno, any brand you like)
Sweet and Sour mix
A rocks glass or tumbler

1.  Place several ice cubes in the shaker.
2.  Add 3 shots amaretto
3.  1  1/2 shots sweet and sour
4.  1/2 shot maraschino cherry juice, if desired
5.  Shake vigorously until ice cold! Pour into glass. Garnish with cherries. Sip. Enjoy!

Dust -- A Plant's Ultimate Nemesis

Dust is a dangerous thing for your houseplants, yes...really -- and for one key reason: accumulated dust on a plant's leaves can prevent the plant from getting good light. This means your plants can't properly photosynthesize, and that's no good! Photosynthesis is the process by which a plant creates its own food, and let's face it: sun is the catalyst of this process! If we could photosynthesize, do you think I'd want to be covered in a layer of dust?

Maybe you're a lot like I am when it comes to dust -- you just don't like doing it, and it gets the better of you time and again? Well then, what to do if your Croton is getting dusty? Philodendrons a bit on the grey side? Plants that have big, broad leaves (like Janet Craig Dracena or Corn Plant) will tend to trap and hold onto dust particles more than others. Here's what you can do:

A. Misting the plant beforehand will help cut through the layer of dust and make wiping it away easier on you.

B. Use a sponge or damp paper towel to lightly wipe the leaves...use caution so as not to break or damage them. If this method has little to no effect on your dust disaster, it's time to get serious!

C. Take your plant to the shower or sink and spray it down lightly with tepid (room temp) water. Pat dry with a towel to avoid water spots (if they drive you nuts!).

Hint: Your African Violet prefers not to get water on its leaves, so in case of dust or dirt particles, use a dry paintbrush or artists' brush. I suppose even a new makeup applicator would work....

So there you have it -- a few simple steps to help ward off the dust! Trust me, your plants will be happier for it!